October 2003

Beauty Meets Its Beast: The Dark Magic of Julia Pastrana

By title="Email Irene Fogarty" alt="Email Irene Fogarty"> Irene Fogarty

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When an attractive, fellow beauty-writer (Erin Williams), revealed she was playing the lead role of the ugliest woman in the world, I was intrigued by the irony of it all. What cosmetic faux-pas could this beauty expert create to make her look ugly? More importantly, why the hell this role? Either way, this would be the opening line of my article and a theatre opportunity not to be missed. Little did I know how the worlds of theatre and beauty-writing could intertwine with such relevance. What I discovered was a play and story that rightly deserves Yeats’ idea of a terrible beauty and much more.
Perhaps the irony starts with its titleThe True History of the Tragic Life and Triumphant Death of Julia Pastrana, the Ugliest Woman in the World. The real-life story of a four and a half-foot tall Mexican woman in the 19th century, who was covered with hair and exploited by her American showman/husband (Lent), as a circus freak. No stranger to the grotesque, its writer, British playwright, Shaun Prendergast, appeared in several of Kenneth Branagh’s films such as Henry V, and Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein. It is Prendergast’s comfort with the ugly truth of humanity along with the director’s, J.V.Mercanti’s unconventional theatrical quips that make this one-hour experience so startling and hair-raising (no pun intended).

The play is a show itself. A juggling of noises, sounds, smells and mental images of the good, the bad and the ugly of carnival life, human greed and our notion of beauty as we see it today. From the minute you enter the small, intimate theatre room, you can smell the rope of the netting that surrounds you. Somehow you feel like you’re going to become enmeshed in a sideshow of festivities other than the Siegfried-Roy kind. The only beasts here are the human ones.

Just as sideshows were built around illusion and tricking the audience, we too, like the carnival goers, are drawn in by the slap-stick, fast-shooting, step right up salesy language of carnival life. Prendergast’s lyrical script moves as fast as the wheeler-dealer mind of Lent, (played so convincingly by Evan Mueller).

Armless..legless, limbless wonders and a litany of other deformities are listed off as easily as the guy on the street selling Gucci bag rip-offs. But as Lent proclaims, Talk is cheap, he’s got the real McCoy the genuine freak the girl gargoyle herself. Julia Pastrana, the ugliest woman in the world.
As the audience strained their necks to get a good look, we got something else darkness. Total darkness. The curtains are closed on us. This is no blackout, this is theatrical blackmail, and there’s no turning back now. Instead, we hear the comforting sweet Mexican voice of Julia, who describes herself as hideous because of her hair profusion, has an exceedingly good figure, good taste in music and dance, proficient in three languages and gives to local charities.

So the fantastical journey begins. Through the rotating voices around the room, you realize and that show is acted all around the audience by performers who move in absolute confidence through the pitch blackness.
This is the real magic of the play. What we the audience can see through the darkness. And how Predergast and Mercanti. Perhaps this is what fascinated me most. How did these actors practice? Surely they must have bruises from rehearsals or is their night vision better than my Lasik 20/20? If not, how come they move so fluidly, so confidently as if the lights are on? Admitting it as a mere challenge, Mercanti oversaw the cons of the darkness and claims that by using our other sense, we not only hear a play as in Shakespearean times, but also see it in a new light. What’s more, it’s hard to believe that there are only five actors that fill the room. They’re always silently moving around you, in front of you and behind you. Always talking directly to you, at you. And there’s nobody to help you, you’re in the dark, confronted with your soul, just as Lent is near the end.

The darkness becomes an increasingly ingenious device to make us focus on the dark realities of Julia’s life and how we too can be blind to human life situations that surround us everyday. Through the threatening darkness it becomes clear that we become closer to Julia, her pains, as we see her life the way she didin the dark. It also makes us focus on something other than her ugliness the ugliness of those who exploited her for money. And sheds more light on our notions of beauty and what we consider freakish today. We’re faced with issues that we normally chose not to see. As Mercanti reaffirms, freaks and freak shows have fascinated us for centuries and they still do. It’s the same concept between the reality TV shows and Jerry Springer and Ricki Lake? We watch to say “thank God my life isn’t that bad”.

Forget reality shows, your safe world is rocked when Prendergast and Mercanti play God with us. In the depths of Julia’s anguish, the audience feels like they’re stuck in a purgatory where the hellish questions of Julia’s life possess you. Noises of brooms sweeping, hammers pounding, splashing of water, even someone relieving himself, forces us and our imagination into the orgy of carnival life as we’re left to question our own lives through the harrowing, soul-wrenching story of Julia. A woman who simply yearned to fall in love, have a child, own a house and live life. (Isn’t that exactly what Bachelorette Trista always wanted?).

What arises from this murky atmosphere is the fine line between normality and abnormality. We’re forced to ask ourselves who the real freaks are in the world? The ones with physical deformities or the ones who capitalize on them? The Lent’s of the world, the people who exploit others, and do anything for money: All your dreams are bought by it, sold for it, All your hopes are pinned on the pound and the dollar, on the mark, on the lira. Whatever the currency, humanity will sell its soul for money.
It’s been four nights since I saw the Julia show. I’ve had fantastical dreams, thoughts and continual discussions about it. This is how deeply it draws you in. and leaves you begging for answers to human mysterious oddities it made you question. For that alone, I thank and congratulate Shaun Prendergast, the brilliant direction of J.V. Mercanti and his stunningly agile cast, as well as the story of the most beautiful woman in the world, Julia Pastrana.

Now when’s my next waxing appointment?

The Breast Beautiful

By title="Email Kate Becerra" alt="Email Kate Becerra"> Kate Becerra

Let’s face it. The passage of time seems to wreak more havoc on our breasts than on other areas of our bodies. Pregnancy, weight gain and loss, and just every day gravity all take their toll and cause a combination of effects that change the appearance of the bust. While the marks from glorious life events such as childbirth should ideally be worn with pride, most women would like to be able to feel that their bodies can remain as smooth and firm as possible as they grow older. And to a certain extent, they can.

Stretch marks, once they have appeared, will not go completely away, nor will the sagging that naturally occurs with age. Breast tissue contains no muscle, only ligaments and fatty tissue, and once these have stretched there is nothing short of surgery that will change that. But exercises and skin care can go a long way toward maintaining the texture of the skin and the muscular support underlying the breast.

If you take care to keep your skin moisturized during pregnancy and afterwards or during any major weight gain or loss, you can help diminish stretch marks. Several products on the market are made especially for the maintenance of the bust.

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Orlane makes a firming gel for the bust as part of their B21 Thalassotherapy line, based upon a complex formulated from seaweed form Brittany’s Brehat archipelago.

The science: Fortifying and firming the support fibers of the bust through cell renewal.

The aesthetic: Smells absolutely great, goes on light, quickly absorbed.

The result: Provides a supple-feeling skin with the appearance of firmness.

Price: 85.00 Sold at fine department stores.

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Elizabeth Arden doesn’t make a bust-specific product, but rather encourages consumers to use Ceramide Firm Lift Body Lotion on all parts of the body that they would like to see become firmer.

The science: A retinyl complex and special skin-firming ingredients firm the body.
The aesthetic: Silky and light, pleasant smelling, and skin really does feel firmer immediately after applying. Can be used on the entire body with same results.

The results: More noticeable immediately after application than several that hours later. Long-term firmness noticeable.
Price: 36.00

Darphin has a two-pronged approach to bust firming, the light spray-on Complexe Profile Buste which is massaged in, and the luxurious Profile Buste lotion.

The science: Darphin asserts that Complexe Profile Buste actively fights against breast slackening using plant extracts such as centella asiatica, and ginko biloba, Sage, rosemary and lavender oils are meant to firm breast tissue.

The aesthetic: The fluid Profil Buste is an oil-free, lightly scented lotion that absorbs quickly and leaves skin tingling slightly. The spray Complexe, while great smelling, feels slightly astringent and mildly irritated my skin, which is sensitive.
The result: These products, pleasant as they are, can not fulfill the promise they make that the user will regain firmness and that ‘beauty will be restored.

Price: Bust Profil Complex 100.00 dollars
Bust Profil Firming 60.00 dollars

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Where to purchase: Fine department stores.
Pevonia Botanica, an independent line of cosmetics that uses plant formulas to regenerate skin’s texture and elasticity promises to leave skin surfaces smooth, hydrated and youthful.

The science: A combination of plant extracts aimed at smoothing skin.

The aesthetic: The Ligne Esthebuste gel concentrate feels as if it is penetrating the skin and does render the skin feeling taut after application. The Specific Neck and Bust Cream is rich with an herbal light scent and leaves skin feeling deeply moisturized.

The results: Lives up to its promise of leaving skin smooth and looking and feeling hydrated.

Where to buy: www.pevonia.com lists distributors.

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Life Works, an online beauty products company, makes a Beautiful Bust Liquifying Cream. It promises to liquefy on contact and discourages users from rubbing the cream in but rather to let it remain on overnight.
The science: Apparently allowing the product to coat the breasts overnight is meant to make the breast feel smoother and silkier, creating a ‘young supple feeling.

The aesthetic: This waxy, odorless product is reminiscent of Vaseline. After application I was tempted to wipe it off immediately.
The result: I found this product un-useable. However, as the goal in preventing stretch marks includes keeping the skin of the breasts lubricated as the skin stretches during pregnancy, this product may very well provide exactly the necessary components to achieve this.

Where to buy: Online at www.healthwagon.com, and at 9.95 it could end up being a real bargain as a stretch mark prevention measure.

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Sisley has two breast care products, the Phytobuste Botanic Intensive Bust Compound and the Crème Pour les Seins.

The science: Utilizing natural plant extracts (surprise surprise!) such as soy, focus, horsetail and tomato, the products are meant to be massaged in for ten consecutive days, several times a year.

The aesthetic: I cannot imagine using these formulas for ten days and then stopping. I LOVE these two products! After using the Botanical Intensive Bust Compound, I swear my breasts glowed, and the rich, dense bust cream was by far the most hydrating product that I sampled.

The results: It remains to be seen whether ten day usage at intervals over the year leaves me with the same results but on the short-term I found this to be the best product.

Where to buy: Better department stores.

SO the bottom line (wait, let’s save the bottom line for next month’s issue.)
The final thought on these bust creams is that there is nothing in a jar that will lift your bust line to where it once resided or to erase stretch marks.

Prevention is the best way to ensure that the skin surface of your breasts undergoes the least amount of change during pregnancy, weight loss or gain, and aging in general and certain of these and many other products can contribute to that prevention. Be sure to check labels for recommendations of safety of use during pregnancy or nursing.

C’Mon Baby, Light My Fire

By title="Email Erin Williams" alt="Email Erin Williams"> Erin Williams

Raise your hand if you were in the blackout. Good, now raise your hand if you were equipped for the blackout. Okay, now, raise your hand if your apartment was filled with light and incredible smells during the blackout. Hands are quickly dropping here, girls. We need to be ready and that means being prepared and doing it with style.

Candles come in all shapes, sizes, and smells and there is one out there that can truly make your world a brighter place. But how many times have you bought a candle and once you got it home there’s no smell, the wick decides to migrate south for the winter, or the wax simply funnels right down the middle? There are some candles that live up to high expectations and can turn your home into a place of bliss.

If you’re a lightly scented fan, Bath Bloomers, www.bath-bloomers.com, are a great choice. The line was founded by Mary Feldman and is created from pure essential oils and herbs, their primary focus being on the relaxing and restorative qualities of bath time. The 6 oz. Blazing Botanical Candles burn for 48 hours and have fragrances inspired by worldwide locales. From the pine trees of Scandinavia to the hibiscus of Greece, there’s global stimulation for everyone. The Tangerine Yin Yang Candle contains tangerine (which originated in China and is renowned for its harmonizing properties), grapefruit, lemongrass and sage essential oils which are all designed to stimulate and soothe. The result is a light scent that isn’t oppressive.

If you like a little more oomph to your candles and you haven’t tried Tocca’s wares, then high thee hence to www.tocca.com. Tocca’s candles smell amazing and have some really original aromas – from 007, smelling of leather and a dry Martini, to Sophia, smelling of fresh cut Italian herbs and tomatoes. Their two latest candles for the fall, Tara and Yma, are incredible. Tara ‘s base is the Himalayan! mountain flower White Ginger Lily which is akin in smell to gardenia. Tara is “one who saves” in Buddhism and is among the most highly worshipped goddess figures. Yma is a fruitier offering with a top note of guava while red currant adds a splash of sweet citrus. Yma Sumac was a legendary Peruvian mambo singer who served as inspiration. The new candles are 10.6 oz with a lead free wick and burn for 60 hours.

Another fare for candle dieters is from fragrance queen, Sarah Horowitz, of Creative Scentualization. She launched her Perfect Perfume Candles due to positive response from her Perfect Perfumes line (worn by everyone from Jennifer Lopez to Madonna). The candles are packaged in clear glass jars with a black band circling the base and are available in five fragrances. “Perfect Vanilla” is a cacophony of vanilla including four types of the bean with hints of patchouli, musk, and tobacco topped off with Israeli Blood Orange. The result is a light scent that floats its way through your home.

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Most candles are made up of paraffin was but there is a camp that is quickly gaining ground – soy candles. Jimmy Belasco created Er’go Candles (Latin for therefore”) in 1999, www.ergocandles.com, and currently lists Oprah as a fan. The wax is all vegetable, 100% natural soy wax from soy beans farmed in the United States. They contain no chemicals, paraffin, or petroleum. The wicks are cotton or paper core and the candles themselves contain the highest quality of oils. Er’go has their line divided into a handful of categories. The Solo Line, 7 oz., takes single items from Mother Nature and focuses on exploring the multiple dimensions of each item. Guava was my favorite, burning around 55 hours, filling the apartment with its sweet fragrance. The Spa Silver Line is 20-30% less fragrant than the rest of their candles and is perfect for spas or bathrooms where you want a more subtle scent. White Flower, composed of jasmine, tuberose, and ylang ylang is ideal for a lighter touch.

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Something I thought was really original was Er-go’s Pure Passion Collection – these are mini versions of their Passion Candles sold in boxed sets of 1.5 oz. candles that burn for 15 hours each. It includes one top note candle and one base note candle and you can mix and match however your little heart desires with neroli, musk, cassis, and amber. They’re really creative and let you unleash your inner fragrance goddess.

One constant with candles is the care that they require. There are two basic rules dealing with burn time and wick trimming. For every inch in diameter of your candle you should burn it for an hour. Candles require commitment and if you can’t hack it they will funnel their way out of your life. Also, before you light your flame cut the wick! This prevents smoking candles and blackened wax.

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You can run the gamut from $4 to $40 and more. If you’re in need of a quick and easy fix Glade’s French Vanilla, www.glade.com, and Air Wick/Wizard’s Lavender Fields, www.airwick.com, are seriously yummy and last. Or you can go to the granddaddy of them all and check out Diptyque’s latest candle Essence of John Galliano”, www.eluxury.com, and see what their first celeb partnering smells like (woody with iris and vanilla musk).

So the next time the lights go out you will be prepared. We look great in candle light anyway and match that with darkness, the next blackout could actually be a really good time.

If Only Chewing Orbit Gum Did the Job

By title="Email Erika Hilson Palmer" alt="Email Erika Hilson Palmer"> Erika Hilson Palmer

I always watch those Orbit gum commercials and think to myself, If I ever fell in a puddle of mud chewing a piece of Orbit gum, would my teeth be that white and sparkly? Just kidding! would never get close enough to a puddle of mud to test that theory anyway so we’ll just laugh, watch the commercial, and wonder how those ladies did get such lovely smiles. Well, I bet I know the answer to that one professional or home kit teeth whitening (natural shmatural, right?). After seeing that it’s humanly possible to get your teeth that white and perky, if teeth can be perky, why wouldn’t you want to get your teeth whitened? Luckily, unlike some other questions I’ve asked the Universe (like why can’t I lose weight by eating too much and not going to the gym), I have an answer to this one too there’s no reason to not want your pearly yellow-ish browns to be pearly whites again. I recently had the in-office teeth whitening procedure done, so I can tell you from my own mouth to your ears (well, eyes) that not only does it work, but it REALLY works. Of course, I would show you my before and after pictures to confirm this, but the lighting was weird in the office, so it basically didn’t show much of a difference. You’re just going to have to trust me.

Now, I know that a lot of questions have been raised regarding the new whitening craze: does it harm your teeth? Are there any side effects? Do the at-home treatments work as well as the in-office procedures? Guess what? I’ve got more answers! (You can just call me little miss info today). In addition to having the in-office treatment done myself, I spoke with two of New York’s best cosmetic dentists regarding teeth whitening, its effects, and their recommendations for at-home products.

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Glassman Dental Care
Spa Atmosphere + Teeth Whitening = Very Happy People

When I first stepped into the Glassman’s office at 160 West End Ave, I thought I had accidentally ended up at Bliss or the J. Sisters, the office screams spa! and definitely doesn’t scream dental work! “There are patients that are very nervous, and then there are some patients that aren’t nervous, but they just want to relax,” Dr. Debbie tells me (sitting on the waiting room’s beautiful, comfy couches I might add). DVD’s with virtual reality glasses, music, neck pillows, hand cream with warming gloves, and if your procedure is long enough, the Glassman’s will bring in someone to massage your feet while you’re in the chair. Yummy, non? Well, that’s definitely one of the perks of going to Glassman Dental; however, the big perk is that you’re also guaranteed to leave the offices relaxed, and with a gorgeous, healthy, and gleaming smile.

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Dr. Debbie Glassman and her husband Dr. Steven Glassman have been in practice together for 14 years (she’s been practicing for 16), and the focus has always been cosmetic dentistry. Dr. Debbie tells me that she found the instant gratification of cosmetic dentistry very fulfilling, and that seeing a difference in someone’s smile when they leave your office is a great feeling. Recently, the Glassman’s reworked the smile of a Toronto tourist who was unfortunately mugged the first day of her first trip to New York. Veneers have always been a part of the Glassman Dental practice, which offers a permanent restoration to your teeth and gives you an entirely different smile. But, as you can imagine, not everyone needs his/her entire smile reconstructed. I, personally, like to think I have quite a nice smile, but years and years of being a diet coke fiend have left my teeth looking like, well I’m sure you all know someone with stained and yellow-ish teeth, and that’s what they looked like. So, teeth whitening it is!

The Doctors Glassman introduced the in-office whitening to their practice about seven years ago, and they use the Zoom! whitening gel and light. They prefer the Zoom! system for a variety of reasons, one of which is that it goes beyond the in-office treatment and has an at-home maintenance kit as well. “Your teeth are very white when you leave the office, but if you’re going to have marinara sauce, or soy sauce, or red wine, you might relapse slightly, so you’ll have the ability to maintain your smile at home. The maintenance kit includes trays and gel, which you use at home for a few weeks after your procedure no moans, no groans you know it’s worth the maintenance work, so just do it!

And unlike the thousands of dollars it costs to get veneers ($6,000-$20,000 depending on how many veneers you need), in-office teeth whitening costs about $600 plus the cost of the maintenance kit. No, insurance won’t cover it, but I’m telling you it’s worth it those massage chairs, the neck pillow, some soothing tunes oh, and I know you’ll love your whiter teeth, too.

Glassman Dental Care
160 West End Avenue
New York, NY 10023
212.787.4860
appts@glassmandentalcare.com
www.zoomnow.com

Dr. Jonathan Levine
GoSmileOK! I Will!

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Dr. Levine has been practicing cosmetic dentistry for over 20 years, is one of the forefront doctors in the field, and believes that the smile is the centerpiece of beauty. After being a part of the innovation of veneers, it is not surprising that Dr. Levine would come up with a system for whitening teeth as well. And that whitening system is GoSMILE. Dr. Levine says that the system developed out of a need by (his) patients to have an effective way to maintain the whitening achieved by (their) in-office whitening system.

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Like the in-office Zoom! treatment at Glassman Dental, the GoSMILE system is founded on the fact that it is not a one shot deal (or the bada-bing bada-boom, as I like to call it), and there is a maintenance routine to protect your new smile from regressing back to its old dingy, diet coke-y self. Even though Dr. Levine uses the Zoom! light in his office, his GoSMILE system is not specifically designed to be used with that light. He says that the (GoSMILE) system is designed to be used outside the office, at home, work, or in the car. The whitening gel is contained in vacuum-sealed ampules so that the 6% hydrogen peroxide polymer gel is pure and potent when applied to the teeth. The purity of the hydrogen peroxide helps reduce possible sensitivity from the procedure, and it helps to kill bad breath as well. (And let’s hope that if you get your teeth all nice and whitened, you’ve got someone around who’s gonna wanna kiss ‘em, so your breath better not be stinky.).

Unlike the Zoom! maintenance system, you can use the GoSMILE system whether your getting an in-office whitening or you want to do it in the privacy of your own home or car, or work. There are three different GoSMILE kits: GoSMILE Luxe, which has 30 refill ampules, a silver compact with 7 ampules and a vinyl carrying pouch, and a traveling case ($110); GoSMILE Starter Kit, which has the 30 ampules that will get you through the two times per day/14 day whitening process (and two to spare–$75.00); and the GoSmile Value Kit, which has two 30 ampule boxes and the silver compact with seven ampules and vinyl carrying pouch ($175).

If you do decide to go for the whole megila, the in-office whitening treatment at Dr. Levine’s costs $600, and you can purchase your maintenance kit in the office (or online at www.gosmile.com). He, of course, also does general dentistry, all forms of cosmetic dentistry (particularly veneers), and even has a private lab in his offices (so you can pick up your new smile as quickly as possible).

Dr. Joseph Levine
923 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY 10021
800-407-7661
www.gosmile.com

But what about… The best at home whitening kit?
Dr. Glassman says that the Mentadent system is the way to go, and has actually recently been named spokesperson for the company. You can buy the Mentadent home whitening kit at www.drugstore.com or www.CVS.com for approximately $20-$25 per kit. Dr. Levine recommends his Go Smile system but I bet you could have guessed that one!

Does the at-home whitening kit work as well as the in-office kit?
No. But let’s be real, some people can’t spend the money to go and do the whole shebang, so home whitening it is. It’s not a crock though home whitening really does work if you take it seriously and do it routinely. I’m 99% sure of it.

How long does the in-office whitening last?
The whitening itself can be a permanent change in the color of your teeth if you maintain them properly post your whitening. You teeth will go back to looking as grimy as they did before you spent the $600 if you don’t take care of them right, which is why maintenance systems like both Dr. Glassman and Dr. Levine offer is so crucial in the long term fabulousness of your smile.

Am I too young? Too old?
Screw you, I’m never too old For most everything in the world, including teeth whitening. However, you can be too young. Dr. Glassman points out that if you are below a certain age, your teeth haven’t finished forming completely, so the whitening won’t work as well, and it’s probably not a great idea to expose your teeth to whitening if they’re not fully adult, yellowed, and nasty? So, for those in quest of whiter teeth who happen to be younger than 16 should try Boosta whitening system similar to Zoom! but it doesn’t use the light, only the trays with the bleaching solution.

And in case you were wondering the majority of folks who whiten and briten their smiles are women between the ages of 25-45. As of now more women may whiten, but men are starting to catch on (at least when it comes to this ha!).

Are there any side effects?
Dr. Levine, Dr. Glassman, the ADA everyone points out that you can get tooth soreness and potential gum soreness, but the side effects usually don’t last any longer than two days. From personal experience I can tell you that I had super sore teeth after I got mine whitened, but pop a few advil (not aleve, not Tylenol or Advil), have some matzoh ball soup, and it’ll all be better in the morning.

Is in-office whitening gonna get any cheaper?
Dr. Glassman and Dr. Levine both feel that the cost is as low as it’s going to go for a while. The cost is predicated upon the technology – so if the lights get stronger and can whiten your teeth faster, then it’ll get cheaper. So encourage all your kids to study this crap in school so they can lead us into the future of whiter teeth.

The Straight Story On Curling Your Lashes

By title="Email Stephanie Ila Silver-Silberstein" alt="Email Stephanie Ila Silver-Silberstein"> Stephanie Ila Silver-Silberstein

I remember being both scared and excited to use one. To me, it represented a rite-of-passage into womanhood. Watching my older sister use the frightening contraption always made me cringe, and I was convinced blindness would be the result of using it – nonetheless, I wanted one.

The eyes can be a girl’s best feature, so it’s very important to look for new and improved ways to enhance them, be it with make-up, eyebrow waxing, and well, of course, optometrists.

With the time, energy and money we pour into eye shadows, eyeliners, mascaras and eye cream, it is a sad occurrence when one stops there and does not take advantage of one particularly eye-opening gadget (no pun intended) – The Eyelash Curler. Now, personally speaking, I can’t recall ever doing more than walking into the nearest drugstore and purchasing a $3.00 eyelash curler whenever mine happened to have broken, or become so infested with bacteria, even I knew it needed to be replaced. Therefore, I was not surprised by my initial temptation to march into Duane Reade (or visit www.drugstore.com) and test out the array of inexpensive curlers by say, Revlon or Maybelline as research for this story. However, not wanting to disappoint my readers, I ventured instead into Saks Fifth Avenue to get the latest scoop on this be all, end all beauty necessity.

My trip to Saks revealed that there is, in fact, a limited selection of eyelash curlers bearing an actual reputation. There’s the curler by Trish McEvoy (www.trishmcevoy.com). This half-moon-shaped metal curler comes equipped with a rubber pad (and one replacement pad) for comfort, safety and hygiene. In a beautiful French accent, the girl at Trish explained that the material of the rubber was actually silk and safe on the eyes. I wasn’t entirely convinced my research was over, so after indulging in a free makeover (I love their oh-so portable make-up and you should definitely check out Trish McEvoy’s new book, The Power of Make-UP at (www.simonsays.com), I decided to take the fervent advice I received earlier that day from the Stilla spokespeople and make my way over to Shiseido (www.shiseido.com). I can’t recall exactly what the man at the counter told me, but suffice it to say, I was sold. From an overly enthusiastic speech, I learned that this curler is ergonomically designed to fit the eyelids perfectly without pinching.

Its shape matches the natural shape of the eyelid; so all lashes can be curled in one simple step. In turn, the eyelashes will follow a natural curl, opening the eyes wider and making them appear more vibrant. The black rubber lining (and replacement lining) grips the eyelashes firmly yet safely, and the curl will hold for hours. The Shiseido product-pusher got so excited and passionate about this curler, I couldn’t help but believe him.

Before moving on, let me share with you Shiseido’s helpful hints on using the gadget:
Hold the curler by positioning the upper frame on the upper lashes and carefully close the lower frame holding the upper lashes between both frames.

For a more dramatic look, curl the lashes three times – starting from the eyelash roots and working towards the ends. To clean, wipe with tissue or a dry cloth after each use.

Thinking I had completed my research, I began talking to the girl at the Mac counter (www.maccosmetics.com), since I was also at Saks on my quest for a new funky shade of eye shadow. But when I mentioned my newfound interest in eyelash curlers, the Mac girls’ eyes widened as though she had used 10 eyelash curlers! She exclaimed, The best one by far is by Shu Uemura. You can only find it at Bergdorf Goodman’s or Barney’s, and I swear by it! It’s truly amazing! With further inquiring, I found out that what makes the Shu Uemura so extraordinary is it’s shape. To the naked eye, this curler looks like any other.

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But a closer look will show you that it has a rounded shape as opposed to straight across (wait, aren’t they all rounded?). According to the Shu Uemura spokeswoman at Barney’s this will give you the perfect curl”. Furthermore, the silicone rubber with which the curler pad is made (perhaps that’s what the girl at Trish McEvoy was trying to say, but it came out ‘silk’ instead) is the best material to use for gripping and curling. Designed originally for the Japanese eye, the curler will round your lashes upwards and outwards rather than bend them upward. One must be sure to use a lightweight mascara when using this curler. For your convenience, Shu Uemura makes the perfect mascara to accompany their eyelash curler. I was convinced the Shu Uemura curler was going to be $40 but no, it was a semi-reasonably priced, $15. So a girl doesn’t have to break the bank to get those fab lashes we all wish we’d been born with!

A Ribbon Runs Through It

By title="Email Helen Yun" alt="Email Helen Yun"> Helen Yun

October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month and, once again, the cosmetics and fashion communities have turned out in full force to show their support for boosting knowledge and research about this fatal disease. How can you help make a difference? By picking up the latest beauty booty and participating in special shopping events to benefit breast cancer charities. Here, our guide offers 21 fabulous ways to help the fight against the number one killer of women between the ages of 35 and 50. Then fill up your shopping cart with dream creams, must-have hues, sensational scents, and chic scarves all from your favorite makeup and style houses, and all for an important cause. Pink LadiesBobbi Brown, Stella McCartney, Lilly Pulitzer and other glamorous names think pink with a new crop of limited edition makeup, accessories and a couture-worthy t-shirt. A portion of the proceeds from these items will be donated to worthy charities like the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation, so get that credit card ready.

Clinique Breast Cancer Awareness Set 2003 Lip Palette, $20

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Packed with 10 hues of pout-worthy color, glacé and shimmer, this sleek palette doesn’t just pay lip service to token products for charity. We couldn’t keep our lip brush out of the Black Honey, and at only $20, it’s easily the best bang for your buck to keep your smile bright all season long. Available at www.clinique.com and Clinique counters.

Estée Lauder Pink Ribbon Compact, Lipstick Traveler and Pin, $15 to $45

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Each year, the house of Lauder introduces a new set of Pink Ribbon accessories for October. 2003′s collection features classic crystal ribbon designs on the gift-worthy brushed square gold Translucent Pressed Powder compact ($45) and matching pin ($15). If you’re looking for a new jet-setting companion, the Traveler ($22.50) makes a perfect makeup clutch with a full-sized lipstick in Bois de Rose and a petite Rose Candy nail polish – all in a neat pearly pink bag.

Lilly Pulitzer Silk Scarf, $30
Helen Hunt, Serena Williams, Rosario Dawson, Sarah Michelle Gellar all “get tied to the cause” in Palm Beach print queen Lilly Pulitzer’s silk scarf. Designed in partnership with Ford, the pink-and-lime-green skinny scarf is decked out with cheery butterflies and daisies. It’s an accessory with a deeper-than-normal meaning. Available at Lilly Pulitzer signature stores, Bloomingdale’s stores, www.bloomingdales.com or Bloomie’s by Mail.

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Saks Fifth Avenue’s Key To the Cure T-Shirt Designed by Stella McCartney, $29
Saks’ new cancer initiative debuted on September 17 with an extravagant kick-off party that attracted celebs like Tobey Maguire, designer Michael Kors, Alan Cumming and Demi Moore (Ashton was nowhere to be seen). Another famous beauty, Nicole Kidman is acting as the department store’s spokesperson and model for the official Key to the Cure t-shirt. Created by fashion megastar Stella McCartney, the white cotton Danskin number is adorned with hearts charms, feathers and a pink key, and is already red hot thanks to shout outs by www.style.com and WWD. Available at www.saks.com or at Saks Fifth Avenue stores.

Stila Lip Glaze Palette, $38
“Created for the cause,” this pretty iridescent pink compact features 4 all-new shades of fuchsia, baby-pink, mauve and blush pink. The super-moisturizing glosses smell like a mint peppermint patty, and are just as lip-smackingly irresistible. Available at www.sephora.com. All your Favorites, All for Charity You don’t have to buy a fleet of pink products to join the fight against breast cancer. Thanks to these makeup houses, your trip to beautyland can benefit both yourself and non-profit organizations like The Breast Cancer Research Fund.

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Aveda All-Sensitive Collection, $7.50-$34
Available at Aveda shops and www.aveda.com.

Bobbi Brown Tulle Lip Color and Rose Sugar Shimmer Lip Gloss, $18-$19. Available at Bobbi Brown boutiques and www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com

Jo Malone Red Roses Cologne, Bath Oil or Body Lotion, $45-$100
Available at Jo Malone, 949 Broadway, New York, NY.

La Mer Crème de la Mer, 2 oz., $165
Available at Saks Fifth Avenue stores, www.saks.com and www.gloss.com.

Prescriptives Super Line Preventor+, $75
Available at Prescriptives counters and www.gloss.com.

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Support free mammograms by visiting this site. www.thebreastcancersite.com

A Labor of Love

By title="Email Courtney Dunlop" alt="Email Courtney Dunlop"> Courtney Dunlop

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Sometimes beauty gets boring. Products start to look the same, smaller brands get gobbled up by big conglomerates and lose their edge, and it all just seems…dull. Enter Paula Dorf. She is a breath of fresh air with her visionary products, energy, and passion. In other words, she is just what the beauty world needs right now.

Dorf’s entrance onto the scene has become somewhat of a beauty legend. As a makeup artist for film and television, she custom cut brushes from art stores to achieve the looks she desired. Realizing she was on to a good thing, she debuted her own color cosmetics collection in 1995 (with her partner and husband, Sandy) based around the innovative brushes. The innovations have not stopped since.

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With the October launch of her new skincare line, Simple Skin, Dorf is venturing into a tough world. But among the all-too-familiar sea of lotions and toners, these products stand out. Drawing on her love of nature, the line includes exotic ingredients such as kola nut, macadamia, and evergreen. The Gentle Bamboo Exfoliator (already on its way to becoming a classic) taps into the never-been-explored properties of bamboo rice, a grain used for smoothing and clarifying. The line also includes products such as the Primrose Night Cream (with sweet almond and carrot), the Firming Neck and Décolletage Cream (with clover, mulberry, and licorice), and the Soy Day Lotion (with sugar beets and sage). This is not your everyday skincare. Dorf – who ardently believes in practicing what she preaches – has been using the products throughout the two-year development. The woman glows.

As well she should. She has created a collection to be proud of. Everything with the Paula Dorf name on it personally represents her and has gone through her tough standards. She is involved with every product from beginning to end. She worked with the perfumers to create her signature fragrance, Zita, testing notes over and over until she was satisfied. Dorf had the inspiration for the scent long before she ever dreamed she would actually create it. She always wanted to capture her memories of morning walks with her mother while vacationing in the Catskill Mountains. The result is a dewy floral with notes of grass and rose, the essence of a mountain morning.

At the heart of it all is her down-to-earth practicality. “I chose to do real faces. I have never done models. I want to make things easier for real women”, says Dorf. She doesn’t do “makeovers”, she gives “makeup lessons”. A lesson at a Paula Dorf counter involves the makeup artist teaching how to do one side of the face and then allowing the customer to replicate the other side on her own. The brushes are there to make it all come together. “I started using brushes for economical reasons”, she confides. She found that sponge applicators absorbed too much product and had to be thrown out too frequently. Plus, the colors went on clearer with a brush. She calls brushes a “common sense” product. Makeup lasts longer in the container and on the face when a brush is used. Simple.

Dorf would be happy to show anyone how to use her brushes. “I love doing personal appearances. I always want to help other women”. Her philosophy is all about teaching and guiding, not peddling trends. “Trends don’t work for me”, says Dorf. “Who am I to dictate?” This makes a trip to a Paula Dorf counter a refreshing experience. The products are designed to help and enhance. A few standout items are the new Smart Set II (a great travel brush kit), the Enhancer in Baby Eyes (inspired by her nephew’s big, bright eyes), and the Transformer (turns powder shadow into a water-resistant liquid).

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Dorf has plenty of beauty advice to go along with her products. For starters, she says, “I don’t necessarily believe that if you wear bright lipstick you have to wear a nude eye. Eyes and lips should enter a room at the same time.” And, “Lipstick is an accessory. Women should have a variety of lipsticks and wear a different one all the time”. And her trademark mantra, “Become your own makeup artist”.

Anyone who has not had a Paula Dorf experience should attend one of her personal appearances; her excitement is contagious. She has a gift for pinpointing exactly what a woman needs. In my case it was the Special Camouflage for my under-eye circles and the Cheek Color Cream in Candy Apple, all applied with brushes, of course. Anyone who has shied away from brushes in the past should take a trip to a Paula Dorf counter and get a lesson. Things like foundation brushes and angle liners can seem daunting without proper instruction.

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In the crazy world of beauty, Dorf stays one step ahead by staying true to herself and following her heart. She honestly loves what she does and continues to find inspiration in every aspect of her life. Many people in the beauty business say that they just want to help women feel beautiful…Dorf actually means it. And you got to love that.

Beautyscopes

By title="Email Stef Schwalb" alt="Email Stef Schwalb"> Stef Schwalb

City Pulse Update
  • PHotChoc
  • Scharffen Berger Chocolate “Bar”
  • This Valentine’s Day, Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker is bringing its American artisan chocolate to a one-day only “Bar” in Chelsea Triangle.

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