Beauty

By Erin Williams

The mineral craze has officially hit the nation with full force! I’m willing to wager that almost everyone is familiar with the idea of using minerals in a loose foundation (and if you’re not, brush up your basics at www.beautynewsla.com/beauty/swirl-tap-and-buff/ and become a veritable rock hound!).

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We know that mineral makeup is generally free of alcohol and have some sort of sun protection, but do we really know more about the topic than this? Is there more to mineral makeup than just one product? We delved into every nook and cranny of the “rocky” world and found out some great new lines as well as those that are tried and true. We also sat down with mineral makeup pioneer, Jane Iredale, to get some facts straight.

BeautyNews: We’ve heard the argument that loose powder mineral foundations settle into pores and are sometimes too “shiny” for people – what is your response?
Jane: I think it depends on what’s in the formula and how it’s formulated. It’s impossible to lump all mineral powders under one umbrella. That’s why we offer three types of formula: pressed, loose and liquid. In addition, application also plays a large part in the way a mineral powder will look and it’s so important to use a good brush. We offer a full line of brushes that are cruelty free. In fact, we obtain the hairs naturally (from the brush when we naturally brush animals).

BeautyNews: We’ve also heard that some people have sensitivities to Oxybizmuth Chloride – what are your feelings on that ingredient?
Jane: We’ve done sensitivity tests – 50 people per product – and found zero sensitivity. There are all kinds of bismuth oxychoride. We use the highest grade possible called Sericite which is a combination of BN, mica and silica. If there is a sensitivity to BM, it has to be very small since it’s been used in cosmetics since Cleopatra.

BeautyNews: What’s the ingredient that causes a sheen?
Jane: It isn’t one ingredient. It’s all the ingredients and just as importantly the way they’re blended together. Blending is probably one of the most important factors because minerals can be very temperamental.

BeautyNews: How do you feel about lines marketing themselves as mineral lines and their products contain talc?
Jane: Mineral makeup has always been defined as something that doesn’t contain talc or FD&C dyes. So I wouldn’t consider any powder containing talc a mineral makeup. I would class it as a traditional makeup masquerading as a mineral makeup. jane iredale takes so much pride in sticking to “mineral makeup” guidelines.
BeautyNews: What do you feel about finishing powders?
Jane: I don’t think it’s necessary with a good mineral powder. We offer a matting powder for those with very oily skins but its purpose is to absorb excess oil during the day not as a finishing powder.

BeautyNews: Do you feel that the formula in a liquid mineral foundation is targeted for sensitive skin or is it a bit more compromised than a powder because of the binders necessary for a liquid?
Jane: Again, not all liquid mineral foundations are created equal. I’ve seen some liquid foundations that call themselves mineral but are anything but. They don’t have to be compromised. Our Liquid Mineral is full of active ingredients that are good for the skin including aloe vera oil, CoQ10 and other helpful ingredients. We’ve even managed to do it without synthetic preservatives. Generally binders are used by pressed powders not liquid.

BeautyNews: How much “mineral” is in a mineral lipstick/gloss? Is it really that different from a regular lip product? Does it still have the SPF?
Jane: Our lipsticks have an SPF 18 with edible zinc oxide which is a mineral. The difference between our lipsticks and traditional formulas are that they don’t contain FD&C dyes. We color mostly with iron oxides which are minerals. We think this is important because if you wear lipstick every day, you will eat two tubes a year, so why not make sure what you are eating is completely safe and free from chemical?

BeautyNews: Why is it so rare to find pressed mineral powders? – whether they be foundations, blushes, or shadows?
Jane: Because they’re much more difficult to deal with than the loose and are more expensive. I could fill two pages with the problems. However, women do seem to find them more convenient and so it’s worth the extra trouble and expense. We were actually the first mineral cosmetics line to provide pressed powders!

Whew! So now we know what we’re dealing with, here’s where you can find all sorts of creative goodies!

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Let’s say that you’re over the loose powder and want something that gives you the benefits of mineral makeup, but isn’t going to get all over your bathroom and makeup bag – we hear you! There are several options. TRUE Cosmetics employs Idebenone which is a new ingredient to the cosmetic world that gives an antioxidant boost and lightens hyperpigmentation without bothering your skin. Their Protective Mineral Makeup Compact is a pressed alternative, is available in 14 shades, and won’t spill all over the place – an added bonus. www.truecosmetics.com

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Aveda’s Inner Light Tinted Moisture SPF 15 is a lightweight tinted moisturizer that employs malachite, mica, titanium dioxide, and tourmaline to give a longwearing finish that doesn’t turn on you by oxidizing the way many mineral products tend to do. www.aveda.com
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For a more full-coverage product jane iredale’s Liquid Mineral (mentioned above) is one of the best bets. The mineral spheres float in a gel of aloe vera, lavender flower water, and vegetable glycerin. Jane has employed a time-release technique in the foundation that deliver antioxidants to the skin throughout the day – so not only are you looking great, you’re also doing your skin a favor! www.janeiredale.com

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MAC Mineralized Skin

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L’Oreal Bare Naturale Mineral Makeup

If talc doesn’t bother you but you like the idea of mineral powders MAC has their limited edition Mineralized Skin Finish in five shades that match Nicole Kidman fair to Iman deep skintones with a silky matte finish. www.maccosmetics.com. If you like the idea of a travel ready product, L’Oreal’s Bare Naturale Mineral Makeup has a mini Kabuki brush built in to deliver the SPF 19 infused loose powder foundation www.walgreens.com

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Everyone is producing their own version of the shimmer brick – whether it’s stripes of color or squares, you can use your powder brush to get a sweep of color or an eyeshadow brush to get specific on your lids. Youngblood’s Mineral Radiance in Sundance is the perfect bronzer – combining four shades of warm peaches to give the ultimate glow. www.ybskin.com

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If shimmer drives you crazy, you will snap up the matte blushes from Lauress. Aptly named Simply Matte, there are an astonishing 29 shades to choose from, sure to compliment any skintone, and the silky feel will make it a daily staple. www.lauress.com

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So you’re in love with the idea of loose mineral shadows, but the mess drives you nuts! glominerals has your solution – gloEye shadow trios are perfectly matched to give you your entire look all in one compact. One of our favorites is Posh which has a nude ivory, shimmery brown, and shimmery pink to give you a look that’s great for every day. www.glominerals.com

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Kissy Face Cheek Souffle

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Fiesta Eye Souffle

All mineral girls know that pressed powders are tough to find but creamy formulas are near impossible! Well, we found one, and it not only comes for cheeks but eyes too! They’re called Whipped Cheek Souffles and Eye Souffles from a company called Twisted Fayte and you are going to LOVE them. They feel like chocolate mousse and come in all sorts of fun colors. The Souffles stay all day, don’t crease, and give a pearly gleam that brightens any face. www.twistedfayte.com

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If you have a sensitivity to liquid eyeliners but love the staying power, count your lucky stars for jane iredale. Her new Liquid Eyeliners are available in Black, Black/Brown, and Gold, stay put, and won’t irritate the eye. www.janeiredale.com

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If you have a sensitivity to liquid eyeliners but love the staying power, count your lucky stars for. Her new are available in Black, Black/Brown, and Gold, stay put, and won’t irritate the eye. For the ultimate gentle mascara La Bella Donna is the ticket. The formula is water-resistant, a great deep black/brown shade, and won’t hurt the most sensitive little peepers. www.labelladonna.com

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Lip gloss is something we can’t live without but a lot of the mineral formulas tend to be a little too frosty. Bare Escentuals hit the right balance with the combination of sheer, neutral colors with a hit of shimmer. www.sephora.com

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Want a little more bang to your lip product? Therapy Systems has a new mineral line and their Lip Glaze from the Champagne Platinum Collection is seriously the perfect shade for everyone – it’s kind of eerie. It gives fair skin a soft rosy mouth and deeper skintones get a soft natural shade because of the brown base. www.therapysystems.com

And that’s only the beginning! Put on your miners hat and search the market for the products that suit your needs. Just remember to check the list of ingredients! Who knew geology could be so fun?!

Originally published December 2006
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