By Amy Sciaretto
When British makeup artist Jemma Kidd agreed to submit to Beauty News NYC’s “In the Hot Seat” Q&A, she was really up for the challenge. She was so forthcoming with tips, trends and techniques that we had to give her a sounding board outside of her brand profile, which is also in this month’s issue.
Kidd was generous with sharing information on how to achieve a cool yet inviting winter shimmer without the icy chill! Kidd offered a wealth of tips on how to survive Old Man Winter without sacrificing beautiful skin, lips and eyes.
Here are Kidd’s tips, in her own words.
The Winter look relies on achieving a flawless, even complexion with a translucent quality For mid-tone and warmer skin, go for pale peachy blush and lipstick instead of cool blue-based pinks; for dark skin, choose deep plum shades.
Eyes should be pale and iridescent, so white or silver metallic cream is ideal – cream eye shadow is more moisturizing than powder. Pure white metallic eye shadow looks magical on anyone with naturally pale skin, but if your complexion is darker you can achieve a similar ethereal quality by using metallic cream, silver or gunmetal eye shadow and liner.
Tidy the brows and lightly define the shape. Pat a little concealer or eye primer over the lids and at the corners of the eyes if necessary to neutralize any redness. Using a white eyeliner pencil, outline the eyes all the way around, including the inner corners, and draw along the inner rim of the lower lids. Apply a wash of cream matte powder eye shadow over the lids from the lash line to the browbone. Using a synthetic brush, apply frosty metallic cream eye shadow over the lids, blending it from the lash line to the socket crease. Apply lengthening brown mascara to the upper lashes only.
Lips need a gloss finish for an icy, shimmery look. Moisturize and protect the lips with hydrating balm, then apply candy-pink lip gloss for a cool glassy finish.
Use a rich moisturizer to form a protective barrier against the drying effects of cold weather. Apply moisturizing radiance-boosting liquid foundation to even out skin tone and give an iridescent quality. Pat in concealer where needed to hide any blemishes and neutralize redness, which can be exacerbated by cold weather. Blend cool pink cream blush over the cheekbones for a natural-looking flush. Dust the face with ultra-fine translucent powder for a velvety smooth finish.
Cold weather is harsh on the skin and central heating dries it out. Skin needs extra protection at this time of year to avoid getting rough, chapped or red. Here is my advice to keep it at its best:
Protect and Hydrate: Start exfoliating every other day to prevent any flaky areas from forming, and use a more intensive moisturizer to protect the skin. Look for rich oil-based balms with SPF and vitamin K to counteract any redness. Pat it into cleansed skin and let it sink in before you put on make-up.
Moisturizing Make-up — consider switching to a heavier-coverage foundation – on thoroughly moisturized skin a cream foundation won’t cake or look too thick. Your skin will probably get paler, and you should change your foundation or concealer to reflect that. Invest in an illuminating base to use underneath your foundation to give winter skin instant luminosity. Avoid using too much powder, which can be drying.
Eyes often water in the cold and wind, so avoid eyeliner or mascara that is likely to run.
Put bronzer away – it should be replaced with matte, nude colors. Buy a matte blush a shade or two darker than your natural color. Cool blue-based pinks give a wintery flush. If your skin is very dry, cream blush will be more moisturizing than powder.
Carry a wax balm and reapply frequently. Look for a lip gloss with moisturizers or Vitamin E to protect the lips while adding shine.
Additionally, our friend and celebrity makeup artist Jen Farhood also offered some holiday and winter tips to help you look your best when the temperature dips and the photo opps are a plenty!
In her own words, Farhood said, “Begin by using a luminous base such as Laura Mercier Illuminating Tinted Moisturizer, since the winter months can be drying and have a dulling effect on your skin. Dot it on your forehead, nose and cheeks, and blend using a sponge — fingertips can spread bacteria and cause breakouts. Make sure to blend well into slightly below the jawline for a flawless finish. Follow with a fool-proof brightening concealer under the eyes (try Givenchy Mister Light Instant Light Corrective Pen). Using a large powder brush to set the concealer and foundation, apply Make Up Forever HD Microfinish all over your face. This will keep make up in place and help absorb oil to keep you shine free, while evening out your complexion for a glowing, radiant look. Another option for a natural looking base is to use an airbrush make up system, which sprays the foundation evenly and dries to powder on contact. Try the Foundation Delux Kit at http://www.dinair.com.
To brighten up your look, brush a hint of color on the apples of your cheeks with a coral pink blush that has a hint of shimmer in it – Torrid by NARS is a pro favorite! Smashbox Eyelights Palettes each contain a variety of three high intensity metallic shadows, specially formulated to be worn wet or dry. Apply the lightest color shadow under your brow bone to highlight it, and create an instant lift. The darkest color will go in your crease, and the medium shade on the eyelid area.
Add a dazzling sparkle to your eyes by lining them with the GLEAM ALL multi-purpose double ended shimmer glitter pencil. Follow by applying two coats of Voluminous Mascara by L’Oreal waterproof formula in Very Black, for smudge-free, long-lasting wear that won’t flake. Let the first coat dry before applying the second for ultimate thickness and length.
Finish your look with VIVA GLAM Lip Bag by M.A.C. This limited edition cute tartan bag contains a duo of VIVA GLAM V lipstick and lip loss. 100% of the proceeds go to the M.A.C AIDS Fund to help support people living with HIV/AIDS.