City Pulse

By Susan Romero

Emerson’s Fall 2012 collection is an eclectic mix of shapes, textures and hues, including deep violet, neon green and black. Edgy black boots in various styles completed the looks. Designer, Jackie Fraser-Swan was inspired by porcelain doll figurines from Dresden, Germany in World War II, and was also influenced by the 1940s Hollywood glamour and pin-up girls. The make-up for the collection was an intense focal point, while the hair framed the face in soft waves.

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The inspiration is “sophisticated, sexy, pin-up, goth girl,” said lead U.S. make-up artist for Illamasqua, Andrea Helgadottir. She achieved this look by using a variety of dark colors on the face. The eyes were lined with Illamasqua’s Precision Ink in Abyss and Powder Eyeshadow in CanCan, a lilac purple was swept across the lids and inside corner of the eye. Then another Powder Eyeshadow called Forgiveness was used in the crease of the lid, and mascara in Raven finished off the lashes. Kontrol lipstick, a dark blue, violet shade added intensity to the face. “The color is based on the 1920s Berlin boot girls who wore different color boots,” said Helgadottir. The cheeks were soft with Simmer Blusher, a sparkly blush in Ambition, a pinkish plum color.

Image courtesy of

Let me say that I am not unbiased when it comes to Illamasqua make-up, so covering it backstage was a particular joy for me. Not long ago I discovered this line and fell in love with the foundation, then just about everything else they make. I can’t wait to try some of the runway looks, toned down of course.

Image courtesy of

Since the make-up was so bold the hair was more subdued and started with a head full of pin curls. Master Stylist Zahir Ziani for the Red Door Spas, created this look by blow drying the hair and then using a curling iron to create curls that were then pinned to the head to hold the set. The result was a soft, romantic pin-up girl look.

Nails were designed by Alisha Botero of Red Door Spas, using two shades of polish from Illamasqua, Nail Varnish in Velocity, a deep lavender shade and DWS, a cement gray.

Originally published February 2012
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