By Charu Suri
It is astonishing to note that nine years ago, Alice Ritter did not know how to design. She bought her first sewing machine in 1997, and was determined to be a designer ever since she moved to New York City. “I was really inspired by the movie La Notte,” she says, “where the clothes are worn by Jeanne Moreau and Monica Vitti.” Ritter loved their carefree, graceful clothing so much that film became an inspiration for her Spring 2007 collection. Ritter said she also turned to the poetic, carefree spirit of American icon Lee Miller this season.
The hairstyles, created by Takamichi (who owns the eponymous salon at Great Jones Street), was kept simple and loose. “Alice wanted the style to be as minimal as possible,” says Takamichi. “With a little bit of bohemian touch of the 1960s, from the movie that she loves so much. It’s basically a straight style. We wanted the hair to collaborate with the clothes, so that it won’t disturb it.” Takamichi used a variety of brands to create the bohemian, simple look he wanted, from Redken, L’Oreal to Mark. His preferred finishing spray for the models was the Alfaparf finishing spray. Once the models’ hair was blow dried, he used a straightening iron.
James Boehmer of NARS cosmetics created the face of Alice Ritter for Spring 07. “The look is sweet and girly,” he said, “with stained coral lips using the Red Square, and dirty and clumpy eyes with mascara applied in three coats.” The skin was left matte and clear, and a shimmery eye shadow in bolder colors (e.g. platinum, icy tones) was applied to the eyelids. The foundation was a thin veil (almost nude), and the look was clean but not “too done.” The brows were brushed with clear gel.
To see the look in action, click on our video podcast.
’80s SIDE PONYTAILS SWEEP THE CUSTO CATWALK
Custo Barcelona’s show was like a shockwave of color in a Fashion Week that was overall safe and true to the traditional Spring pastel color palette. It was also the first co-ed fashion show I went to, and the mix of men and women was as refreshing and unusual as Heidi Klum wearing her hair brunette.
Barcelona’s collection, Technicolor, announced that it was “Bold. Sharp. Unafraid…Geometric…Urban.” All these elements fashioned pieces that were unexpected and daring: like the multicolored leggings that were paired with shimmery ballet flats and a loose-fitting multi-colored tunic.
The hair for the women was done in a side ponytail (yes…you have seen the word ponytail every day this week in our backstage reviews) that lent a free spirited look to the multicolored pieces. It was one of the strongest looks of Fashion Week: bohemian, colorful clothes with a very chic and palpable updo. Bumble& Bumble hairstylist Jimy Paul said that the inspiration was a clean, straight simple look, to complement the bright clothing. He used Bumble & Bumble Holding Spray and then swept every strand of hair to the side. For the African-American models, Paul used a classic “Afro” look to complement the brilliance of the clothes’ colors.
The makeup, done by Lucia Pieroni, accented the eyes, which were first given the eyeliner treatment (Cle de Peau products were used for the face), and then the eyelids swept with a balm to add sheen and sparkle. The lips were first brushed with concealer, then coated with lip balm. Another trend we’ve seen this week, the combination of concealer with balm or stain gives the lips a very natural pouty look.
Pieroni’s makeup invoked images of sun-kissed French girls, and shows that it isn’t the most expensive items that will give you this beautiful look, but how well you use your products that really counts. Whoever knew that a simple ponytail (strategically placed, of course), concealer and lip balm could make you strike gold?