City Pulse

By Charu Suri

MAYAN MAGIC AT NICOLE MILLER

There’s no place to hide with Nicole Miller’s Tulum-inspired collection for Spring 2007. The colors are bold and ethereal, the patterns are soft and feminine. “I was inspired by Mayan colors,” says the designer, “and colors like Jaguar God yellow, celestial aqua and Mexican gold are prominent.” The inspiration for the collection began in March 2006.

I went backstage to check out the hair and makeup and noticed that the hairstyle du jour at Ms. Miller’s show was…well, braids. “The hair is styled with Aveda Air Control and the Volumizing Tonic,” says Amanda Bush, professional artist for Aveda. The end result was a very young, fresh look, as though the models were straight out of a Swiss Miss commercial.

Teddy Charles, another hair stylist, explained that because the colors of the clothes were so brilliant, the hairdo needed to be simple, and “less voluminous. No hair extensions used,” says Charles, “and this style works well for both short or long hair.”

James Kaliardos, makeup artist for the show, used M.A.C. pigment powders on the eyes to make them stand out. Turquoise shades were used on the bottom of the eyelids, while gold, copper and metallic tones were used on the top lid. “The look is cool and sun-kissed,” he says, “and a mix of bright color with neutral shades, which is always a good Spring thing to do.”

The look created by these artists backstage were a hit on the runway. From the coral silk habotai dress to the silk Ottoman shirt dress, the hair and makeup looked young and fresh, and did nothing to detract from the vibrant colors of Spring.

GLOBAL WARNING AND COUTURE:
SASS AND BIDE RISES TO THE OCCASION

By Gillian Weeks

It turns out fashion has more to do with global warming that mere cashmere couture. Designers are taking rising temperatures into account as they create their new looks for Spring 2007.

I asked Heidi Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke of Sass and Bide about their vision for their Spring collection. “As seasons become less distinct due to the change in climate, the fall and spring collections have a more continuous design,” they affirmed. Don’t expect to see any floral patterns in Sass and Bide’s new line. Instead, they present mod dresses in muted hues, along with boxy skirts in metallic-accented linen. Altogether, the look was more schoolmarm than flower child.

The makeup and hair for the show also seemed to anticipate the end of the “Age of Ice Caps.” Gone were the typical romantic tresses. There was something much more restrained about the look presented Saturday night. Renya Xydas, the hair designer for the show, mixed finger waves and a textured chignon for a look that was both quaint and avant-garde. Xydas (pronounced “exodus”) gave me step-by-step instructions for how to get the look when you’re trying this at home on your own:

First, part the hair from ear to ear and drench the front third of it in gel. Beginning at the point of the eyebrow, create an S-curve that arches across the forehead. Clip the waves in place with simple wide hair tongs, available at any drug store. Dry lightly with a blow dryer. You want it to be slightly moist. Use a lot of hairspray (don’t hold back!). Take the remaining hair and lightly tease it at the crown of the head. Wrap it into a loose chignon at the top of the neck, and pin it in place.

Xydas also whipped up a headband made of black lace and gold and silver ribbons to create a division between the shellacked finger waves and the messy bun. This might come in handy for amateur stylists like us, as a little lace has been known to distract from less polished attributes.

The makeup designed by Bobbi Brown is immensely wearable and accented the models’ natural beauty. Sebastian, one of the makeup artists for the show, walked me through the process. He used Brown’s new Shimmery Coral Blush to emphasize a girlish freshness, “as if you had just come back from a workout.” The eyes were enhanced with only one coat of black mascara, while the lips took Brown’s recently created Natural Beige lipstick, patted on with a finger. “We want to see every feature at its best,” Sebastian declared.

So when it comes to global warming, maybe we ought to be more concerned about its effects on our biosphere than the effects on our outfits. But it certainly raises a question for the future of fashion: what’s next, how to dress for acid rain?

GEN ART: THE STYLE REVIVAL
By Lauren Baccus and Stef Schwalb

Talk about a religious experience! Fashion Week exalted some new designers to the next level at the Gen Arts 12th annual Fresh Faces in Fashion Show on Friday September 8 at the Grand Ballroom of the Manhattan Center. The evening showcase took flight with an emcee who praised and welcomed the spring fashion season by warming up the crowd with a presentation technique rivaling several Sunday morning televangelists. He spun fashionista-style commentary with some diva-like digs to the drab ensembles we were still wearing from last season, and all the audience could say was “Amen!”

The show highlighted eight designers: six women and two men, (Bruno Grizzo; Sunshine & Shadow; Mischen; Felder Felder; ONG; April, May; Lincoln Mayne; and Telfar). We’ll break it down for you here about the styles you’ll want to seek out and the beauty trends that will be blessing in Spring 07, featuring hairstyles from Ecru and makeup by M.A.C.

Style and substance are two words to take note of for hair this season, according to Ecru New York’s creative designer Lisa Lobosco. Lock looks are structured and demonstrate a more definite shape. To uniquely compliment each designer in the show, the Ecru team, led by Lisa and designer Justin DePasquale, developed a range of styles. For the women’s collections, the looks included high ponytails with high crowns and sleek, straight, feminine strands for April, May; beautiful braids entwined with color scarves pinned up into innovative updos for Sunshine & Shadow; severe, sculptured, graphically shaped styles a la Jackie O (what the stylists termed a “Politician’s Wife’s ‘Do”) for Mischen; simple, striking, straight strands with side parts for Felder Felder; clean, summer, side parts and low ponys for Bruno Grizzo; and classic styles fused with some edgy, curled texture (as well as some ponys pulled back tight on the bottom with volume on the crown) for Ong.

Head bands also made a big comeback (see our article on headbands (BeautyNewsNYC.com – City Pulse) and were instrumental for some of the styles for April, May and Telfar. The process for designing these ‘dos required some teasing; and product picks that include Ecru’s Holding Spray (for use with thermal products), Ecru’s Silk Nectar Serum (to enhance shine), and Ecru’s Silk Texturizing Balm (helps hair stay pliable without weighing it down).

The makeup for Gen Art was designed by M.A.C., and highlighted matte, fresh, flawless faces with minimal makeup overall, except for some light, smoky eyes and lip colous ranging from natural nudes to striking, strong shades of red and pink hues.

Originally published September 2006
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