City Pulse

By Amanda Vasilikos

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Yesterday at Akiko Ogawa’s show, a parade of post-feminism stomped down the runway. No, these weren’t a bunch of broads in flannel or peasant-skirted peaceniks (that, of course, would be plain old feminism). The new wave of grrl power is a hell of a lot sexier and, according to Ogawa, involves glittery boots, fur collars, kimonos, and tartan. Being a woman just got even better.

Her collection reflected classic eastern and western styles but with a harder edge. Hip-slung mini dresses were trimmed with rabbit pelts, flowing kimono sleeves were paired with slinky gowns, and tartan-pleated skirts had no place in the highlands. An otherwise frenetic collection was unified by some bold looks for the hair and makeup.

Each model sported a black bobbed wig with blunt fringe. Bumble and Bumble’s Denis Lanni observed that the look “commands the eye and gives the collection energy – almost like a cup of coffee.” More than that, the style emphasized the presence of Ogawa’s homeland by lending her entire line a classical Japanese look. Wigs like these might not be street-ready, but they might get you contemplating a crop.

Makeup artist Noda Norikata of MAO strove to affect an aggressive, masculine look with searing eyes and nude lips. He lined the eyes with a deep indigo and drew out the far corners. In the crease, he also added deep blue shading to achieve a particularly intense effect. Finally, Norikata painted the lid with a shimmery beige shadow to add depth and contrast. He recommends opting for a lighter shade of blue and blending the colors together is you’re hoping for a prete à  porter look. Feeling post-feminist? Be sure to give Ogawa a second look – this sister is one righteous babe.

Originally published February 2007

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