By Patricia Wersinger
|For the Kaelen, Maisonette 1977 and Guishem shows, Napoleon Perdis’s team created head turning looks varying from minimal to dramatic and futuristic to work with the individual designers’ styles.|
For Kaelen’s new collection by Kaelen Famcombe, a young Toronto native and Parsons’ School graduate who is launching her second season with an array of pleats and knits inspired by 80’s vintage, an understated make up palette was called for. The Sheer Genius Pro Palette foundation was used as a base on all models after their skin was primed with the Skin Renewal Serum and the Auto Pilot Prefoundation Primer, the launch pad for every NP look for whom “it is a crime not to prime”. Powder was added for a matted look and Mosaic Blushing was applied lightly on the cheeks. Eyelids were painted with Prismatic Eye shadow Quad #4 Mocha and the lashes lightly emphasized with the Peep Show Madame Fantasia Mascara. The nude lip seems to be the show’s favorite this year but to keep it fresh Napoleon Perdis’s team created a creamy nude lip specked with a hint of pink or peach with a lot of gloss for shine.
Hair was inspired by Spanish braids. Three rows of skinny braids simply infused with Cutler Finishing Hairspray were knitted above the left ear while the rest of the hair was pulled in a loose braid on the right side. The braid was sometimes purposefully messed up and defiantly pulled over the eye for drama. The Spanish braid is not new on the runway but for fall 2011 this loosened version is in step with the deconstructed bedroom styles of late.
For Maisonette 1977, the refined groungy line created by Jane Ibrahim known for its quirky combination of delicate draping and edgy toughness with unique textures and patterns, the order of the day was to create a look with the same mix of futurism and vintage splendor. Head make up artist Kate Squires’s idea was to pull forward a mesmerizing eye skirted with a heavy line encased in a dark socket. For that effect she used the China Doll Gel Equinox Eyeliner to line the top and bottom lash and blended different shades such as Color Disc Queen of the Night, Bronze Age, Trench Coat and Color Disc Skinny Dip to create a smoky eye lid and socket.
For the complexion, the skin was first primed to create radiance. Boudoir Mist foundation was sprayed on the face of each model and then several shades of beige were worked together into a matte surface. The brows themselves were painted with a little foundation to understate them. The angles of the cheekbones were darkened to sculpt their contours and the lips were colored with Devine Goddess Lipstick Lianna without much emphasis to keep all the focus on the vibrant eye.
The hair was pulled over the side of the face, simply blow-dried. “Texture is what matters above all for this look ” said hair artist Seiji. The nails were painted in a pearly Dove color created by Zoya, the vegan nail polish line.
The make up look for Guishem’s futuristic and vintage collection made of geometrical patterns and symetrical shapes was inspired by a time-travelling super hero figure said Kate Squires. A metallic tone was applied to eye, lip and skin while a smooth and creamy complexion covered the whole face. The lower edge of the eye was lined with gold and grey was applied on the lids and then blended with gold. Chocolate Brown Mascara added on made the lashes thick. The lips were painted in a soft pink matte and a tinge of metallic shade was applied to both lips and skin to match the metallic hue of the eyes.
The look for the hair was to create a clean and chic, minimal editorial feel that would complement the clothes confided Rodney Cutler the hair stylist. After dividing the hair in sections, he pulled it very tightly into a topknot high on the head and then crimped the ends going on all sides with a hot iron to create a modern texture. The metallic make up and tight topknot emphasized beautifully the clear cut lines and minimal elegance that defined the Guishem Fall Collection.
Any of the looks created for these three shows can easily be brought into the street and carried off with ease. All you need is to keep 20% of the dose jokingly says Napoleon Perdis referring to his make up looks. While the look created for Kaelen is very wearable you might want to downplay the others confided Kate Squires and just reduce the dosage. From the loose Spanish bread at Kaelen’s, to the textured hair sweep for Maisonette1977 and the topknot with crimpled hair for Guishem, the hairdos for these shows can be easily carried off by any intrepid woman next Fall
Photography by Kristen Somody Whalen