By Allison Duncil
For the Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2013 collection, creative directors Michael and Nicole Colovos, delivered a strong and ultra-streamlined collection for the modern woman. Known for their simplistic and minimalist-cool pieces, the designer duo achieved just that and more with a new collection of pieces inspired by the Guggenheim exhibition, “Picasso Black and White”, as well as Richard Prince’s book, Prince/Picasso. Structured shift dresses were designed in geometric panels of mostly black and white (with a bit of subtle color-blocking) and slouchy fur jackets with metallic accents strode the runway, in a powerful mix of fabrics and textures.
The lead make-up artist, Hannah Murray, perfectly accented the “monochromatic, boyish beauty” look with NARS Cosmetics. “This look is all about creamy, polished gorgeous skin, with the strength coming from the eyebrows. The girls with dark hair have bold brows and the blondes have muted ones.” To achieve this look, Murray kept the brow “a bit waxy, quite straight and not too elegant,” using NARS Brow Gel and Brow Perfector. For the face, Murray used Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF30 very lightly on the skin. She also used NARS Optimal Brightening Concentrate for a very subtle, pearly accent “that gives your skin a boost without looking like makeup.” On the eye, she applied “All About Eve” Duo Eyeshadow up to the brow and on the inner corner. Then on top of that, she used “Cythére” Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil that is almost skin tone, “but shocked through with a metallic kind of glitter,” which gives a lustrous finish to the eye. For the lips, Murray used a bit of concealer and a little of the excess eye color, in order to take the color down a bit.
Paul Hanlon, the lead hair stylist, kept in line with the monochromatic look with black-brown and white-blonde hair that was very simply kept off the shoulders. Hanlon used a bit of mousse to create a base and parted the hair down the center. Then at the top, he flattened the back of the hair to create “very easy movement with a subtle wave near the bottom.” Hanlon used Bumble and Bumble’s “Brilliantine” to help separate the ends. He also used Roux Fanci-Full Rinse “Black Rage” for the brunettes to make their hair darker, as well as “Papaya White Mousse” for the blondes.
The nails, expertly done by the Essie team, were painted with a base coat, then “Sand Tropez” was applied to achieve a flesh, monotone color. They finished the nails with “Matte About You” to transform the high-gloss nail into a matte color for a more subtle feeling.
Adhering to their minimalist roots, Lang presented a sharp collection for the next season with a delicate balance of edginess and wearability, reminding us that the modern woman can still “feel real and beautiful” at the same time.