City Pulse

By Patricia Wersinger

Nolcha hosted their 11th Season of Nolcha Fashion Week at the Aley Studios, just blocks from Lincoln Center on West 55th Street last Thursday. Going on its sixth consecutive year, Nolcha is one of New York’s leading platforms for independent Fashion designers. The 12:30pm show was a group presentation, featuring a mix of women’s couture, ready-to-wear and accessories. Two designers stood out in my opinion.

The first one, Carlos Luna made me rediscover what I like the most about clothes and fashion, a sense of everyday unassuming elegance combined with artsy details that catch the eye and provoke delight. The sleek urban chic of Carlos Lunas’s collection mixes clean, masculine contours with frivolous accents, such as a long veil tunic floating like a sail underneath a cropped jacket accented with wrist bands and fur. These combinations came off as extremely poetic but wearable. A thick belt evoking glamour and the haughty display of male provocateurs was feminine as it contrasted with the fluid, free-floating tunic.

Courtesy Nolcha Fashion Week 2012

Another stunner was the beautiful teal blue dress worn by a model of exotic eastern European origin. The detailed construction of the dress combined with the serenity of the unusual piquant color made for a beautiful impression with a picturesque quality while evoking a sense of fine art chic. Strident yet tastefully restrained, great color is not something that you see often on a runway. The artist in me was totally seduced by the collection; wishing to see more.

Courtesy Nolcha Fashion Week 2012

The other designer that caught my eye was Greek designer Vasslis Zoulias. While some of his creations seemed to recreate the cold and repressed elegance of the 1950s, I loved his use of feathers in haughty mad hats and in the seams of long tailored dresses, both restrained and eccentric. Delightful and different for sure, the boundaries between the animal realm and the feminine were the favorite fields of exploration of the old masters. There was a return to the Feminine Mystique of past eras, while retaining a modern urban sensibility.

Courtesy Nolcha Fashion Week 2012

The Nolcha Fashion Week is growing in popularity for its great combination of talent and novelty. This platform is not to be missed and I look forward to what next year will present. Combining the unique voice of yet to be discovered and emerging designers, it offers an opportunity to see what is coming and what trends are brewing in the back rooms of the new designers’ studios.

Originally published February 2012
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