By Rob Miola
Jeremy Scott channels bygone youth and defiance for Fall/Winter 2013. Bold, artistic silhouettes, colors and patterns compose a collection that celebrates the west coast skating culture of the 1980’s and early 1990’s.
Hair and make-up teams apply their touches and bring to life an army of insubordinates. The models’ façades convey the thoughts of teen distortion. Leading the hair team for this event was Eugene Souleiman, Creative Director of Care & Styling for Wella Professionals, who cites the look as “Desperately Seeking Susan meets California Goth”. We had the chance to speak with stylist Mark DeBolt, who gave us insight into the looks created, “This really amazing hairstyle features a lot of disconnection. There’s a lot of rash emotion that you can feel in both the style, the texture etc.” Each female model wears a customized wig with a faux shaved side of the head and layered cut. The color of these wigs may be uniform, but the models’ natural hair colors all vary, some blend with the wig while others contrast. “The teams have been working on the wigs all day. The texture was created to look as though she cut the hair herself. It is a very intimate expression of beauty.”
Naturally, the make-up is consistent with this rebellious hairstyle. Key Make-up Artist Kabuki comes up with a look that is simple but strikingly colorful and energetic. “It only took a few minutes to come up with this look. It had to be that easy or it wouldn’t have been effective,” Kabuki stated. The skin tone is enhanced with Matchmaster foundation, and the eye is created with Chromacakes – a water based make-up. A black pencil is applied only to the inner corners of the eye for added definition. Lines jetting out from the outer eye reference the animated horror imagery of Jeremy’s prints, softened by bright sweeps of color across the eye’s crease, leaving a bare eyelid.
The collection is extraordinary. Bright hues of familiar colors splatter across shades and patterns making pop art out of each piece. Some looks were composed entirely of the same print: Shorts and a long sleeve top in white tiger print for the ladies matched a man’s outerwear piece and pair of pants. A pair of thigh high furry boots in black set a precedent for two outfits head-to-toe in fur, one in black, another in yellow. A women’s top resembling a bikini top from the 80’s walked the runway in turquoise plaid and brown cheetah prints. As a group the clashing colors and diverging patterns (including the distinctive Keith Haring print) blur the lines between couture and ready-to-wear. Jeremy Scott fashions his own counterculture.