By Charu Suri
If the savants predict that Fall’s wardrobe be edgy, luxurious and dark with large doses of color, the consensus for makeup is that it be dewy or frosty. Models’ faces were au naturel. Lips were draped with gloss and lipstick in shades of rose and cinnamon. The hairstyles on the runway were varied, ranging from 50′s-inspired ponytails to hair extensions that resembled bows or butterflies.
For Kai Kuhne’s show, Myself, the hair was done in sleek, chic ponytails. Katherine Kalessis, a makeup artist for Sebastian Professional products says, “The look for Kai Kuhne is very subtle. The face is moist, and products are applied with the brush or by hand. We also envision the return of the sheer lip.” Models wore colors from Trucco, including Berry Bazaar, Violet Vogue, Mulberry Muse and Plum Pop.
The hairstylists used the Evokativ line of products by Sebastian Professional, which contain microfine oils for softness, and provides a texture that is not crunchy. Some of the products used on the models were “Lustfull” which is a hair figure-shaper, and “Disobedient” which is a green clay-based matte paste.
For Rachel Comey’s show that transported the audience to the farmlands, the makeup artists envision a very clear look, with blush on cheeks to achieve a windburned effect. This fresh palette was used for both men and women models who sported half-matte lips mostly adorned in pinky beige.
For Alexander Herchcovitch’s show, the hair was done into chic buns and tied with a scarf to complement the idea of clothes with “rebellious luxury” using “Disobedient” messy matte paste by Sebastian.
For his “Uptown Chic” fashion show, Zang Toi hired hairstylist Eiji Yamame, who achieved a rococo hairdo incorporating several bows (using hair pieces and hair extensions) to complement the ornate Parisian chic look of the clothes. Yamame used Nigelle Blowmake Essence, a moisturizing cream for the hair, and products from the Nigelle Wave collection (including a wax), and Genic hair softner from Japan.
“The hair colors and extensions had to match” says Eiji. “So we had to get the precise color of the model’s hair in advance. The whole hairdo took about twenty minutes per model. The inspiration was the clothes: the young, trendy uptown chic girl wearing bowties on the dress, which became bowties for the hair.”
“The girls were to have minimal makeup” says Troy Surratt, the Global Consulting Makeup Artist for Maybelline New York. “We created an ethereal, angelic look with cool, frosty colors on her face, and some highlight on her cheekbones, with crystal clear eye shadow and a nude glow lip color from Maybelline. We wanted the model to look like a Madison Avenue angel.” The makeup crew also used a bit of Greatlash Clear under the models’ brows, and the skin was prepped with foundation.
Bobbi Brown, who did the makeup for Charles Nolan, says, “We’re doing a lot of chocolate colors for the face, with a little bit of shimmer and smudgy strong matte. With the chocolate we’re doing a softer prettier lip because bright red lips don’t look good with the strong eye. Definitely use pinks, corals and lighter colors for the Fall, or a peachy check. Lipstick and gloss (using both together) are great. We are using different colors for lips, eyes and cheeks…à‚stronger smokier eyes with lighter lips.” Using a sepia gel liner underneath the eyes intensifies the smoky look.
For DDCLabs’ show Into the Stratosphere, the makeup artists envisioned a skin texture that was not completely shiny but pure with touches of shimmer. Lips were bright with color, and the eyes were dark and smoky colors. The makeup artists used silver eye shadow with black eyeliner from M.A.C. in colors like Night Divine and Smolder. Lips sported glossy colors like honey beige. The skin was prepped with foundation.
John Ruidant, an independent hairstylist, did the hair for DDCLabs and says that the braids were inspired by look for innocence and rock n’roll. “The models need to look as though the hair’s been worn in for a few days and they’ve been out and about.” Fall is definitely a season of the perfectly imperfect hairdo.
Strands for the Season: Fashion Week’s Fabulous Hairstyles
By Stefanie Schwalb
Autumn is upon us, at least in the wondrous world of high fashion that is. And this year during the week of what’s hot to wear for Fall/Winter 2006, Beauty News decided to strike a pose and hit a few shows to check out the styles and strands of what’s to come for the season. Good things come in three’s, so this special report on hairstyles that rocked the runway will feature Pantene and Alice Roi, Rusk and various designers, and Redken with Cynthia Rowley. So sit back, relax and enjoy the rundown, cause here comes what’s cool from the catwalk.
First up was the Alice Roi show, which was held at Atelier in Bryant Park on Saturday February 4 at 1PM. This 30-year- old designer has been on the fashion fast track since starting her line in 1999. She’s a favorite of celebs such as Julianne Moore and Chloe Sevigny, and her design sense is very chic and well-suited to New York women who want the sophisticated yet flirty look of a line that offers feminine details set against a firm, strong color schemes of black, cràƒªme, greys and browns. To complement the ensembles, the models’ makeup was downplayed to dramatic dark lips and the hair was simple and subdued.
Pantene celebrity stylist Fernando Torrent, whose work has appeared in Vogue, Allure and Harper’s Bazaar, has worked with Hollywood A-listers such as Hilary Swank, Katie Holmes and Kyra Sedwick and famous fashion photographers like Steven Klein and David Lachapelle. To complement Alice’s collection, Fernando created hair styles that were strong yet still feminine, by pulling the strands back to expose the face and cheek bones. “It creates a strong visual” says Fernando, “but the texture kept it romantic, soft, and whimsical.” Speaking of texture, that’s what he anticipates hairstyle trends to be for the season. “Texture is key for the hair looks” reveals Fernando. “The trend will be touchable texture, and hair looks will be more graphic. I think we will see more hair swept away, exposing the face and cheekbones.”
To create such a look off the runway and on your own, Fernando suggests the following: “I love using the Pantene Pro-V in control-shaping mousse because it helps to give hair texture and hold. Scrunch the mousse in your hair using your fingers only because this look doesn’t need a comb or brush. Then twist the hair into a low, loose bun, allowing a few hair tendrils to frame the face. Secure the bun with simple bobby pins and finish and set with the Pantene Pro-V classic hairspray flexible hold aerosol.”
“The look I created today is incredibly easy to create at-home” adds Fernando, “which is why I love it. It’s a very effortless-looking style, but at the same time it looks stylish, and all you have to do is just apply mousse to damp hair. By creating one consistent look for the show, I think it was a beautiful compliment to Alice’s collection. It was romantic and strong, but at the same time touchable and looked effortless. Very much like Alice’s design style.”
Next up was the Rusk Hair & Fashion Show, which was held at The Venue located in the Metropolitan Pavilion on Monday February 6 at 8PM. This show was a big one for hair, literally. I think it has inspired me to start attending hair shows in general because the creations and the excited buzz of the audience in this room was so inspiring. Plus, The Venue space at the Met Pavilion is so big that anywhere you sit is a good angle. On with the show. Sandra Yu, artistic director for Rusk, created so many fabulous ‘dos that were reminiscent of the eighties (a favorite decade of mine) including some punk rock short and sweet styles, side ponytails with pompadour-type tops, geometric gems, and fabulous frizz with some fun brightly hued pieces added in for effect. The makeup, produced by Mark Edio and the Shu Uemura team, was equally full cool color with accents on the eyes and cheeks.
From “Subway to Runway” as the show was called, showcased some innovative styling that synched up perfectly with the assorted American and European designers whose outfits were featured. The designer list included for women: YSL, B. Michael, Gaultier, Bill Blass and Zam Barrett; for men, Ferre, D&G, and Versace. The mix of couture collections made the range of hair creations really crucial, and in creating these looks Sandra Yu gave us some insight into her inspiration. “Knowing the sophistication of Bill Blass or YSL, for example, the hair was designed with a timeless, elegant sensuality in mind. Looks that are flirty, subtle, and sophisticated can empower the sense of femininity” she says. And seeing designers’ upcoming styles often helps dictate what hairstyles trends will be. Sandra take on trends includes a more structured look with fluid, natural movement. “It’s about taking the inspiration from classic and blending it with modern to create an individual look for each person” she says. “For example, creating an updated French twist with softness or a quick ponytail updo with natural movement.” To create such styles off the runway, Sandra says that the looks can be easily duplicated with the right products and appliances. “To create softness, the use of the Rusk Mousse and the Rusk curling iron is recommended. The mousse creates body and volume when the curling can create animation.”
And this show was definitely animated! With the various styles displayed, the most daunting task was just bringing it all together. “The most difficult obstacle to overcome in preparing for the event was tying in hair with fashion under one roof in four different themes and making everyone look individual. There is not one hairstyle that looks the same.” she says. “Of course, there was also the nervousness of knowing that this was the first hair and fashion event taking place on Fashion Week.”
So out of all these creations, what was Sandra’s favorite? “There are many. I love the whole collection of the edgy/avante garde opening. The show began with structured geometric-shape hair with dark monochromatic color” she says. “But I guess my favorite would be the finale, the bride. It’s the rebirth of the dual of modern and classic. I wanted to create a look for the bride that is untraditional yet glamorous, beautiful, and young. It’s the Millennium Bride.”
And that bride will have a few more runways to walk down since after the smashing debut at Fashion Week, Rusk is taking this show on the road with a 20-country tour. Definitely catch it if you can.
Last but certainly not least, we have Redken and Cynthia Rowley (one of my all-time favorite designers), which took place at the Atelier in Bryant Park on Friday February 10 at 12PM. Now this show was packed and with good reason. Although it was difficult to see at some points, one thing you couldn’t miss was hearing the music for this event, which was made up of current pop songs sung by a Harlem boys choir. Wow. Very cool. As always, Cynthia’s styles were playful and colorful and fabulously feminine. All very well-suited to the chic yet bold New York woman.
To make sure the hair matched the ensembles, Redken stylist Thomas Hintemeier created styles which showcased “a slick simplicity from the front” he says, “and changed in the back to a controlled but wild texture of waves because the style had to have a good balance between being chic and raw at the same time.” Seeing what Cynthia had in store for fall and winter had a big impact on what hairstyle trends Thomas believes will take hold. “Through the chic and shiny fabrics in her collection with all the shades of blue/lilac and a lot of beautiful details, the hair trend will have a sensitive balance between simplicity, chicness, and unfinished rawness.”
All of which are attributes that can easily be translated off the runway and into everyday life. “One example is a very dry hair texture” says Thomas, “which is easy to create with hairspray. Apply it to clean, dry hair and brush it out; repeat this process a couple of times and you will get a lot of volume. After that, you just bend each side one time over a big curling iron. With this technique you get a very smooth wave in the hair with a dry texture and a lot of volume.”
And speaking of volume, one of Thomas’ favorite styles he created was big look designed out of frizzy texture with straight pieces placed in between after the whole head is frizzed up. “We shaped it with hairspray. For the show, we made each look individual according to the dress and personality of the girl. With fantastic hairdressers helping you, the actual event of the show is very simple. The difficult part is more to create the look that works best for the clothes and the designer.” In this case, I think we can call the collaboration a big strand success.
We hope you enjoyed this report from the runway. Let us know what you think and we’ll be sure to file some even bigger spotlights for the Spring and Summer collections taking place here in the fall.