City Pulse

By Laura Werling

Photo: Laura Werling

Brazilian brand Osklen made its New York Fashion Week debut this season in the tents at Lincoln Center. Designer Oskar Metsavaht decided that it was time to cross over onto American soil and expand its audience. The “endless summer” of the streets of Rio de Janeiro and the beaches of Ipanema were the inspiration behind the sun kissed collection. As the designer put it, “Think about the best kind of summer day, when you wake up before sunrise and spend the whole day at the beach.” The collection was filled with chic, modern silhouettes and prints on sheer organza of palm trees and sunsets. All the colors of the beach were there; orange, yellow, and pink, and the blues and greens of the ocean, and complete with the taupe of the sand and black of a summer night.

The makeup look for Osklen was a very simple, very free spirited look by Gordon Espinet for MAC Cosmetics. Picture a young, radiant woman who lives in Brazil, starts her day by taking a run on the beach or going for a swim in the ocean. She plays beach volleyball, and later in the evening goes out for cocktails and dinner and maybe even out dancing afterwards. This girl is the very essence of carefree and laid back, so the look had to reflect the influence of beach culture in her life. She’s a very athletic and active girl, and the idea was to have the makeup and hair look like she just came out of the ocean. The most important part of this look is the skin, which has to look very fresh, dewy, and athletic. To achieve this, Espinet first primed the skin with MAC Prep and Prime Skin Smoother and MAC Mineralize Charged Water Eye Cream. Then a light layer of MAC Face and Body Foundation was used to keep the skin even and smooth. Then, to set the skin, a minimal amount of MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural powder was dusted on top to keep the whole face from being too shiny. The eyebrows were brushed upwards to create a boyish, undone look. The cheekbones are sculpted and contoured with MAC Pure Sculpting Cremes in Pure Sculpture. Then, the cheekbones and brow bones are highlighted with Pearl Crème Color Base. The eyelids are brushed with a light layer of MAC Gloss Texture Cream, to give the lids and lash a wet look. For the final touch, the inner parts of the lips are tinted with MAC “Strut the Cherry” lip stain on Trend 13 Lip Pallet.

Photo: Laura Werling

For the “just came out of the ocean” hair look, stylist Matthew Curtis for TRESemme created a look that included lots of shine spray and gel for a wet, just-off-the-beach look. To start, the hair was treated with TRESemme’s 24 Hour Body Foaming Mousse and then curled into big waves with the curling iron, then brushed out. For lots of texture, the hair was sprayed with TRESemme’s Tres Two Spray and pulled back on the sides and the top of the head to get it completely out of the face. Then, the stylists added a lot of gel over the waves to mess it up a bit and give it some wetness and more texture. TRESemme’s Smooth Shine Spray was sprayed over all the hair just before the runway for that extra wetness and shine. The look was finished off with TRESemme 24 Hour Body Finishing Spray.

The lovely Marion Newman for MAC Cosmetics created the beautiful nail art. The nails were kept nude and very simple, and a different shade of nude was used depending on the skin tone of each model. The two main colors used were MAC “Skin” or “Quiet Time”. Instead of doing a shiny topcoat, the nails were pressed on top with the pads of the fingers just before they finish drying, to keep it from getting shiny and to give it the sandy, beachy look. The hair, makeup, and nails couldn’t have been a better fit for the Osklen collection this season. The Brazilian influences and beach inspired looks had a great debut here in the States, and we hope Osklen continues to show here at New York Fashion Week.

Photo: Laura Werling

Originally published September 2012
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