By Naiyana Boonkoom
Backstage at St John’s Center, where Phillip Lim held his spring/summer 2012 show, the inspiration for his collection was an “inner rebel mixed with sophisticated youth”.
The “rebel romantic” look created by Francelle of NARS, meant make-up that showed the “fragility of soft glowing skin”, contrasted with the bold strokes of “powerful metallic round shaped creases” to accentuate the eyes. To achieve this look skin was first prepped with their hydrating cream, followed by Pro-Prime Pore Refining Primer. Next Sheer Glow foundation was perfectly matched to the skin tone and set with loose powder, with concealer used only under the eyes and to correct any discoloration. Cheekbones were highlighted with the multiple in Copacabana or Laguna. With the simplicity of the skin, the drama was evident in the eye make-up. A special effect kryolan in Silver Aqua, which is included in the Paris Duo eye shadow set, is used to color the corner of the eye into the natural crease following the brow bone shape. The shade Night Life is applied with a dampened brush, and the gray/slate shade in the Paris duo set is used in the crease for depth. The finishing touches were larger than life long wear eye liner in Rue Bonapart to line the tear duct, and three to four coats of larger than life volumizing mascara. What I found interesting was how Francelle interpreted the rebel aspect of the look to mean rebelling in using make up in an unconventional way. She used concealer on the lips and used blush color in Gaiety to press onto the lips for just a hint of the pink tone. This is definitely any girl can take advantage of, whether it’s blush as lipstick or even bronzer for eye shadow.
For hair, “geometry mixed with light air” was the inspiration. Lim wanted hair to look windswept, envisioning strands of hair being whipped by the wind. First, Volume Active mousse is worked into dry hair and blow dried with a round brush to create minimal volume. After a side part is created, a couple of strands are pulled out from the side of the face. The remaining hair is divided into two sections, and twisted back and combined into one knot, secured with the ends left out. The pieces of hair that aren’t tied back is then treated with Fiber Architect (launching in October), and pinned to create the illusion of wind blowing through the hair. It’s definitely beautiful and easy to recreate at home.
Nails, courtesy of CND, played up the sophisticated youthfulness aspect of the girls by matching the polish to the nail beds, instead of using nude shades to match the skin tone like in past seasons. The idea was to create a “raincoat of colors”, a sheerness akin to a lip stain, but for nails. Speedy top was mixed with a few drops of Raspberry Parfait to create a stain, a very light wash of color. Again, this idea is so simple, yet it shows the versatility and different uses one product can have. Instead of mixing certain colors, you could dilute colors and create a softer version of some of the favorite colors you might already have at home.
Like his clothes, which are neutral in tone, but striking in the subtle design, the look created for his spring/summer collection carried the same attitude that a Lim girl would definitely appreciate.