City Pulse

By Candice Sabatini

If you expect your taco joint to have a gutted out vintage Volkswagen bus parked in the middle of the restaurant to remind you of all the tacos you bought from converted refitted minibus’ in Mexico, you’ve come to the right place.

And even if you didn’t expect to find that minibus, called a Kombi, but instead are simply looking for a great taco, you’ve still come to the right spot.

Tacombi (get it, taco and kombi) is a funky, hip spot for some of the best tacos this side of the border, along with other specialties from Mexico. First, take in the beach shack inspired décor: picnic tables, cases of beer serving as decoration (ah, NYC’s lack of storage space), along with jars of fruit juices and sauces lining the walls, and of course that VW bus.

But you’ve really come for the food. Chef Luis Aguilar kicks ass! This native Mexican prepares a variety of distinct cuisines from all over Mexico and the menu changes frequently. Favorites such as breakfast tacos, fish tacos, guacamole and cerviche are always available. I highly recommend trying the esquitos, which is a cup of toasted corn with lime and chipotle. Simple, yet incredible. At Tacombi you can sample the best flavors of home-style cooking from all regions of Mexico without having to drive that minibus back to the Yucatan. The food is fresh, pure and unprocessed. The house made sauces, which vary in heat, are on every table and available for purchase to use at home. Handy tip: they make a great gift to bring to those upcoming summer BBQ’s you’re hoping to be invited to.

Thirsty? Enjoy homemade juice drinks in flavors such as watermelon and hibiscus, or Mexican sodas in fresh fruit flavors including pineapple. Sip some house made sangria, or refresh with a variety of Mexican beers.

Head to Tacombi in Nolita for reasonably priced Mexican fare for breakfast, lunch or dinner and relax and enjoy yourself. My only quibble with them is their no resy’s policy, so if you go at a busy time, you might be in for a wait….tho’ they do deliver to the locals.

Tacombi at Fonda Nolita
267 Elizabeth St.

Originally published April 2013
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