By Sarah Solomon
The Thom Browne Fall 2013 women’s collection, bluntly put was (insert expletive here) amazing. It was as if Tim Burton met the French aristocracy for an evening in the snowy woods as they casually hung out amongst male models chained to cot beds with red ribbons.
Thanks to a MAC makeup palette put together by Sil Bruinsma, the models received a porcelain glow juxtaposed by deep red lipstick and bold pink blush applied to the apples of the cheeks.
To achieve their white, Marie Antoinette-inspired faces, the models received Studio Mix Fluid NCIS/WW10 to white out the skin applied with #194. Then it was finished off with Porcelain Set Powder and Studio Fix Shivering White for a more matte appearance.
The rosy cheeks were courtesy of Frankly Scarlet with #134 applied to the apples of the cheeks in circular strokes. Their signature pouts were created by a 316 brush and Ruby Woo lipstick in a centered, petal shaped lip. Basic red pigment was then dusted over Ruby Woo with a 217 brush.
A far cry from his more menswear-inspired collections, Browne gave the women dresses with exaggerated hips and shoulders with ruffles cascading from every crevice, complemented by more structured jackets. There was a good deal of jacquard, fur, and floral lace appliques not to mention a rose motif scattered throughout the collection. From bedazzled purses to petals attached to the ensembles and the long-stemmed beauties held by the models themselves, roses were freaking everywhere.
The trapped male models wore Browne’s signature shrunken wool suits with a crown of thorns pressed to their heads, and the women had their thorny crowns affixed to sky-high hairdo’s while ominous music resounded through the space. I felt as if the biblical overtones were there to reflect our rapidly changing society, but what do I know. Regardless of the meaning it looked cool.
Three weeks ago the name ‘Thom Brown’ was on everyone’s lips because of Michelle’s stunning outfit at the second inauguration, now it will resonate again from his genius in a more expanded womenswear collection.