City Pulse

By Gillian Weeks

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“I dare say, old chap, those Sass & Bide trollops have been hoisting their hems rather aggressively of late. Why, it’s positively improper. I have half a mind to complain to the Queen. Now where are those darling cucumber sandwiches?”

This is, at least in my mind, the dialogue that Sass & Bide’s Fall 2007 collection inspires. With top hats, equestrian styling, and stiff, buttoned up collars, the look is decidedly English. But this isn’t your dowdy Victorian fare; S & B push the envelope with clingy metallics and daring hemlines. The old empire just got a little disco.

sassandbide1.jpg

Lead makeup artist Sebastian used Bobbi Brown products to draw out the eyes from beneath the top hats. He applied a stone-washed taupe and a golden green shadow to the lids, which, he says, “has a neutrality but brings focus to the eyes.” A street-ready look can be achieved by using more taupe than green-gold, and by using a lighter hand on the brown pencil.

sassandbide2.jpg

The hairstyle featured at Sass & Bide may be a little harder to translate. Renya Xydas created an equestrian look by building a sleek ponytail out of two flying buttresses of hair. Two ponytails – one from the dome of the head, the other from the underneath – were wrapped in yards of ribbon and merged several inched behind the models’ heads. Soft, lightly curled locks trailed behind them in what was surely the most literal interpretation of a “ponytail” seen in the tents this week. And that’s no bollocks.

Originally published February 2007

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