Fragrance

By Liz Bekesz

Sweet Redemption by Kilian The End is the last chapter of Kilian’s olfactive odyssey “L’Oeuvre Noire.” Created by Calice Baker, Sweet Redemption opens innocently enough, with slightly sweet, slightly green orange blossom (on a more personal note, I sense a touch of pleasant, nearly fruity tobacco here too; it’s all about Grandpa Ben, for me). From there, the creation progresses to darker territory; richly resinous, with a temporary camphor-like overlay lending a slightly medicinal aspect to the progression. This intriguing accord lives close, slightly rising above the sweetness, which is teased with just the fragment of the hint of the idea of flash-in-the-pan burnt sugar. Then, it disappears: We are left with nothing but the familiar magic of creamy, warm, welcoming vanilla, channeled through “almost religious” magical myrrh, incense and benzoin. Sweet redemption, indeed! Sweet Redemption by Kilian The End is available at Aedes de Venesus and online at http://www.aedes.com.


Elizabeth Morrison adds to her ever-growing collections and creations of lovely niche fragrances with three new scents from her Theme Fragrance line. Each one is uniquely autumnal and charming in its own way: There’s Mixed Metaphor, a brisk, frolicsome affair of orange effervescence that finishes with a powdery soft, amber-y embrace (warning: hide it from your man, as he may love it on himself as much as on you); Night Owl, a wearable weave of smoke and incense layered with notes of firewood, sandalwood, and resins, and Come Undone, a spicy “free spirit of perfume for wood nymphs and urban gypsies,” warmed with clove, resins, and woods. Though spicy, it’s also soft, and edged with honeyed-sweetness – a gentle gypsy, if you will. Available in perfume spray and perfume roll-on; find your Theme (or Themes!) online at Themefragrance.com and themefragrance.etsy.com.

Classically-trained perfumer Ineke Ruhland and Anthropologie joined forces to create Floral Curiosities, a new fragrance collection inspired in part by Ineke’s very own garden. Four gorgeous flowers, each with its own distinct personality, are represented in this collection. My fall favorites include Scarlet Larkspur (Delphinium Cardinale), a sunshine-saturated lane scattered with vibrant, richly-hued leaves (nature’s confetti, anyone?) and Briar Rose (Rosa Rubiginosa). Scarlet Larkspur starts bright and fruity, with notes of morello cherry, red currant, and blood orange; then deepens, deliciously, with notes of claret wine, nutmeg, saffron, amyris wood, tonka bean, and bourbon vanilla coming through. Briar Rose, with notes of black raspberry, bitter almond, exotic spices, black violet, patchouli and cacao absolute, is about “dark accents inspired by twisted thorns.” Sounds right up October’s alley! Available exclusively at Anthropologie stores and at http://www.anthropologie.com.

Vince Camuto is the designer’s first fragrance, and is described as a “polished, feminine fragrance; rich, sensual, and effortlessly chic.” Though characterized as a floral chypre, it is more tropical and sweeter than a classic chypre; no dry, stern, cerebral notes here. Created by celebrated nose Steve Demercado, Vince Camuto opens with nectar of the rare Chinese Osmanthus blended with Bulgarian White Rose. As the fragrance unfolds there are hints of leather and night-blooming jasmine; as it dries down, it’s your skin, teased with the inviting warmth of vanilla, patchouli, and warm amber brazil and embraced by skin musk. A fun, young, flirty and fruity scent that will go from first office to first roped-in club line night with finesse. Available at Macy’s and http://www.macys.com.

Originally published October 2011
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