Hair Care

By Stef Schwalb

The leaves are changing color. The kids are leaving home for school. Your hair is sporting sections of leftover summer highlights, and you’re looking for some products to protect your tresses from the tangled mess that the increasing seasonal winds can bring on. Ah yes…autumn is here. That means you’re seeking advice on how to successfully transform your tresses from one season to the next, and of course, that’s where Beauty News NYC comes in handy. This month we got a hold of Joico International Artistic Director Damien Carney, a London-born artist who’s known throughout the beauty industry as one of the best! He’s worked with several supermodels and celebrities cutting, coloring, and styling their strands. His creations run the gamut from classic to cutting edge, and runway to real life. He’s been featured in a ton of magazines, and now he’s giving us some exclusive insider tips, tricks, and trend notes to help our readers switch seasons with some serious strand style.

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In terms of taking hair from summer to fall, Damien reveals there’s no specific time to cut and color. “Usually the hair is ready once the weather and fall season start to take place, for example, once darker days begin and the sunshine starts to fade. What works for a sunny summer day, won’t work for a dull, fall day. There are completely different color palettes as well as hair lengths and textures.” Damien says that during the summer the hair is usually worn freely and loosely, and during fall and winter, it requires more control and discipline to combat problem/solution scenarios, particularly weather changes.

So caring for tresses during autumn can be a tricky situation for numerous reasons. “The hair usually suffers from a lot of summer damage and texture changes stemming from the sun or extra lightening achieved from hair color. The cuticle of hair is more open,” he says. “Change your hair when you see your skin color change. Hair color is always about the skin tone and eye color although one doesn’t have to follow a magic rule of thumb. When hair has lost its moisture due to summer wear and tear, the hair will not respond well to styling because it’s lost its elasticity due to moisture loss.” Damien thinks that at this time, a good hair care regimen is very important to keep your strands in optimal health.

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“Moisture loss is usually the biggest most common problem in the new season due to the hair texture and the cuticle being open,” he says. “One great product solution is Joico’s KPAK Hair Reconstruction Regimen. The shampoo, conditioner, and styling products all rebuild the hair with the correct amino acids. My other favorite line is Joico’s Moisture Recovery because it attracts humidity and locks in the moisture. When hair lacks moisture it lacks the ability to respond to styling and texture change. The hair’s elasticity responds incredibly well this product; the ability to style with it is simply brilliant and works well on all hair textures, lengths, and styles.”

For color, Damien recommends Joico’s Color Endure. It’s multi spectrum and excellent for color maintenance and preventing fading. “The crème wax is amazing. It’s a new hybrid that styles hair any way you want,” he says. “The objective is to have a luxurious appearance to the hair. Shine, shine, and shine! Deposit colors work well as they require high volume of peroxides to activate the colors. Obviously no lift is added, but this is perfect for colder months. A good general rule of thumb is to deposit color in colder months and lift it during the summer.”

When talking about upcoming trends Damien revealed the following style tips to take note of. “Structured shapes are the new look for fall such as Twenties’ decadence and Sixties’ freedom,” he says. “Shapes that enhance the head shape and closer neck-baring styles are excellent choices because they won’t distract around scarves or neck-hugging warm clothes. We’re not talking about shorter hair all over; it’s fitted and shorter around the perimeter but sports longer, smoother lengths internally usually thought of as layering.”

Some quick tips from Damien for NYC gals on the go:
*Invest in the best hair care you can afford, starting with a great shampoo and conditioner.
*Leave-in, light liquid conditioners are excellent as they protect the hair even further.
*Be inspired by celebs, but be real.
*Go for a slightly shorter version of what inspires you. Shorter styles generally lift the face shape and spirit of your new look. But stay within your sense of style because stepping out too much can look cheap.

For his own inspiration this season, Damien takes note of sleek styles from actresses of the Twenties. “It’s decadent hair that shines,” he says. “Healthy hair is the style and statement of the season. It’s more important than cut or color. If the hair is healthy everything looks great no matter what style you sport.” For more information on Damien Carney and the Joico products mentioned in this piece, check out www.joico.com.

Originally published September 2006
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