Click to Signup
July-August 2009

I’ve heard all the excuses under the sun about why we skip the SPF in our beauty regime. “It makes me break out!” “I hate feeling like an oil slick.” “I just don’t have time to worry about another product.” Yeah, yeah, yeah – I’ve spoken a few of those myself in past years. Somehow, we’ve managed to convince ourselves that finding the perfect night cream and lip balm overshadows the importance of being equipped with the right sunscreen. But why? Skin cancer and premature signs of aging are very much avertable if you just take pre-emptive steps and equip yourself with all the SPF info you need to know. Much like your trusty credit card, you shouldn’t be leaving home without it – and yes, that statement holds true on a day-to-day basis, come rain or shine. Though it may be overwhelming at first when faced with the myriad of words, letters and numbers associated with sun care products, there’s no time like the present to wise up, right? Oui! Luckily for all you BN readers, Manhattan dermatologist and NYU Medical Center assistant professor, Dr. Ariel Ostad, has broken down the basics and put you one leap closer to safe sun.

Here’s a crash course on the vital facts:
• Ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B spectrums of the sun’s rays differ in that UVB is what causes sunburns and leads to skin cancer, mainly basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma, and UVA penetrates deeper because of its longer wavelengths, therefore causing collagen breakdown and premature aging. It has also been shown to be responsible for melanoma – the scariest form of skin cancer.

• The difference between chemical and physical sunscreens is that chemical sunscreens contain ingredients such as oxybenzone or avobenzone, which tend to be somewhat irritating for those with more sensitive skins. However, physical sunscreens, which are proven to be more effective in blocking out the sun’s harsh effects, are mainly made up of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or mexoryl, do not get absorbed into the body and at the same time, do not create redness or pimples as you can see in chemical sunscreens.

• Sunscreen should be reapplied every 2-3 hours, as over the course of the day, it either gets washed off if exposed to water and sweat or the SPF concentration is reduced, so you are not getting complete protection as time passes. Also, you should be using at least one ounce (or a full shot glass’ worth) over your entire body for sufficient coverage each time you apply.

• SPF 30 or higher, which blocks out 98.5% of the sun’s rays, should be your go to number for daily use (yes, even if it’s not that sunny) and is also sufficient for those long days grillin’ out on the roof top.

• Only sunscreens that are marked broad-spectrum block out both UVA and UVB rays, many using ingredients such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or mexoryl. It is not enough just to use a high SPF number, since SPF corresponds only to UVB protection.

SPF technology has come a long way from the thicker-than-molasses varieties of yesteryear, so it’s easier than ever to incorporate it into your beautification routine. So stop making excuses, and stock your beauty drawer with these SPF essentials.

Put your best face forward…

If you’re anything like me and have a hard time finding a facial sunscreen that’s moisturizing yet doesn’t make your face oily or break out, DDF Ultra-lite Oil-free Moisturizing Dew SPF 15 is sure to make you really excited. It’s super lightweight and perfect for sensitive and acne prone skins. A little goes a long way, and the quick-absorbing fragrance-free formula leaves your face feeling dewy, healthy and protected.

Sephora and http://www.ddfskincare.com

For the slightly more mature face, or for those obsessed with preventing aging, Kiehl’s Abyssine Lotion SPF 15 is just what you’re looking for. With Corallina extract – a new antioxidant ingredient in skin care – this Vitamin C and E enriched lotion helps minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and defends against free radical damage.

All major department stores and http://www.kiehls.com

Read More

The film stars of the 30’s and 40’s removed stage makeup with Nivea, and our Grandmother’s loved their Ponds Cold Cream as much as a kid loves ice cream. Those products, the icons of their time, still sell well today to millions of women around the globe. As skin care technology increases and as women get more interested in what’s in their products and what they put on their skin, the list of iconic products grows more sophisticated. Here, we celebrate and give mention to some of the best of the best!

A few years ago I asked a dermatologist what he thought was the best skin cream. His answer was that he refused to recommend one because there were too many varying factors and he didn’t want to “go there”. However, he did offer to tell me what he considered the two most important things in anti-aging skin care. Number one: sunblock – no surprise there. The other? Liquid vitamin C, and he went on to say that it must be in an opaque jar or encapsulated, because like an uncovered glass of orange juice that loses its potency quickly vitamin C evaporates if not properly stored.

In 2005, Skinceuticals created one of the icons of liquid vitamin C with their C E Ferulic. More than just vitamin C, this is a potent formula of 15% pure L-ascorbic acid, 1% alpha tocopherols along with ferulic acid, a plant based antioxidant. This powerful treatment should be applied in the morning before any of your other serums or creams. It enhances the protection against UVA/UVB rays, stimulates collagen production, and evens out skin tones, just to name a few of its benefits.

Like my morning coffee, I don’t start my day without this stuff!

Available: Spafumerie 48th St and 2nd Ave, and http://www.skinceuticals.com

Free Radicals: During the Woodstock generation the term referred to a group you didn’t want your daughter hanging out with because you were afraid they’d damage her mind. Today, we don’t want them around because they’ll damage the skin cells. The prevention? Antioxidants! We want lots of ‘em and in high potency. They’re found in a number of natural substances, such as fruits and vegetables, and used in many skin care products.

Read More

Next time you’re shopping for anti-aging and acne products take a closer look at the ingredients. Far too many products brag about results, yet don’t have much research backing up the claims. These days, it’s important to shop smartly. Take a moment and learn a thing or two about retinoids a.k.a. miracle creams.

Retinoids belong to a group of medicines derived from Vitamin A. Each variation is available in different strengths. For example retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl palmitate are available over the counter, while tretinoin is by prescription only.

It’s a good idea to start with over the counter products that contain retinol, like Murad Essential-C Daily Renewal Complex and Philosophy Retinol Clarifying Lotion. These gentler formulas will acclimate and prepare your skin for concentrated prescription formulas with tretinoin, which often leave patients frustrated, at first, from irritation and dryness.

Murad’s almost powdery formula helps fade pigmentation, and promises to reduce the effects of photo damage by 46 percent in four weeks. You won’t find your skin irritated, instead, retinyl palmitate works to unveil newer, younger skin through exfoliation. Once applied, Renewal Complex feels light and barely noticeable, leaving only a pleasant citrus scent behind. Come nighttime, try Philosophy Retinol. It works to promote skin clarity without over drying, thanks to hyaluronic acid, which provides hydration benefits. The formula is designed to release retinol gradually, so you won’t be stuck with a red, peeling face.

Available at http://www.sephora.com, Sephora stores http://www.murad.com and philosophy.com

Another round-the-clock product is Olay ProX Deep Wrinkle Treatment with retynil propionate. Have fun playing plastic surgeon while going over creases and crows feet with this pen-like tube. Once in place, retynil propionate gets to work by renewing skin cells. Olay ProX Deep Wrinkle Treatment contains the highest concentration of Pro-retinol in the entire Olay collection. Since the purpose of the product is to revive skin’s layer, you want to keep up with UV protection.

Available at http://www.skinstore.com and http://www.target.com

The skin around the eye area is manipulated frequently because it is used during numerous facial expressions, like smiling and frowning. Combine that with environmental factors which contribute to about 80 percent of skin damage and you’re staring at a beauty pitfall. If you’re particularly concerned about the delicate eye area, invest in Cosmedicine Eye Specialist that’s armed with skin tightening retynil palmitate – it works by maintaining collagen. Retynil Palmitate also plays a role as a powerful antioxidant. Other cream benefits include hydration and reduction in dark circles.

Available at Sephora stores, http://www.cosmedicine.com and http://www.beauty.com

Retinol has the ability to penetrate deep into the skin because it is vitamin A in its purest and most active form. It works by increasing skin exfoliation, smoothing out wrinkles and increasing skin elasticity. Because serums enhance absorption and, in turn, access deeper layers of the skin, they work great on problem areas such as profound laugh lines and the crinkle between the eyebrows. En Pointe Precision A Serum uses a stabilized form of retinol to combat annoying lines and wrinkles and improves the appearance of hyper-pigmentation. This paraben-free, antioxidant formula also includes a high does of green tea.

Read More

“An apple a day keeps the doctor away” – not necessarily true, but still a good adage to live with. Now, we can use skin care products made with a Swiss apple to help keep the wrinkles away.
From EmerginC comes Protocell Moisturizer and Protocell Eye Cream. These two new products incorporate plant stem-cells from organic Swiss apples, along with the seeds, peel and oils from French cider apples which promote firmness and offer environmental protection. Extracts from the prickly pear, rich in vitamins and antioxidants, hydrate and protect skin. Additionally, Protocell contains Argan Oil, and you know how wonderful that is. If you don’t, go back and read your Beauty News issues, there’s a test later! I like the texture of these Protocell products. The lightweight formula absorbs quickly and I can put sunscreen on immediately afterwards and not have a greasy feeling on my face.

Available: BeSu Spa, 3rd Ave and 18th Street, and http://www.emerginc.com

TNS Essential Serum from SkinMedica rejuvenates skin with a one-two punch of anti-aging peptides and antioxidants in this powerful serum. The list of potent ingredients is too long to list here, but include many types of peptides, hyaluronic acid, CoEnzyme Q10, vitamin E, green tea extracts and others. For best efficacy, the ingredients are kept in two separate chambers within the container and then mix together when you pump the bottle.

Available: http://www.skinmedica.com

Read More