Grisette Perfume by the House of Lubin, and Gentlewoman by Juliette Has a Gun, are two new heavenly fragrances that celebrate the spirit and originality of the modern women. These fragrances, very different from one another, both captivate and celebrate the essence of today’s modern women.
The venerable house of Lubin Luxury Perfumes has been making fragrances since 1798. Empress Josephine Bonaparte, wife of Napoleon, and her sister Princess Borghese were two of their first patrons and Lubin still today continues to cater to a loyal following of fragrance enthusiasts who seek out their unique perfumes. The latest offering, created by perfumer Thomas Fontaine is Grisette, which is an ode to the free-spirited grisettes (La Belle Époque) of Paris. These were the young, fun-loving, flirtatious girls that worked in the sewing rooms of the Parisian clothing companies in the early 19th century, so named due to the grey dresses they wore at work. Once the 5:00 whistle blew, they were out every night dancing the night away in the cafes and bars of Montmartre or posing as models for painters such as Manet or Renoir. Coco Chanel is one of the most famous of these young working women with big dreams.
Lubin has created Grisette to celebrate the spirit of these girls and for all women of today who possess a joie de vivre. The perfume opens with a juicy squeeze of grapefruit and soon moves into a celebration of roses. Not just any rose, but several rose varieties including Bulgarian, Egyptian and Moroccan which then have their essences extracted in an expensive cold distillation process. This gives the roses a juicy, fresh picked quality, which isn’t at all like those heavy, overpowering aromas some equate with rose. From there it melds into middle notes of iris and incense and finally a dry down of vanilla, amber and musk. I’ve become a little addicted to this soft, gentle fragrance which has moderate sillage and is (thankfully) very long lasting.
Available: Aedes de Venestus, NYC and LuckyScent
From the grisettes, we move on to another type of fascinating woman and different kind of perfume house. Gentlewoman Eau de Cologne by Juliette Has a Gun is a creation of company owner and nose, Romano Ricci. If his name sounds familiar, it’s because Romano is the great grandson of the famous Nina Ricci and the grandson of Robert Ricci who created L’Air du Temps perfume which is still popular today.
The Juliette Has a Gun moniker is attributed to Shakespeare’s romantic heroine Juliette and each new fragrance in the collection is referred to as a chapter or episode. This episode, Gentlewoman, is an eau de cologne, however, unlike most colognes, it’s got staying power. Gentlewoman is dedicated to the neo-dandy who can rock a tuxedo with style and remains true to herself. Ricci describes it as “A masculine fragrance dedicated to women. The note revolves around the Neroli essence, the Orange Blossom Absolute, and a Musky woody base, while the Almond Essence remains sufficiently dressed up to be worn with elegance” It then moves into base notes of ambroxan and musk.
The heart and soul of the fragrance is Ricci’s Gentlewoman whom he describes as “The spiritual heir of Oscar Wilde” and who oscillates between “frivolity and arrogance”. This is no typical, simple cologne; it’s complicated. While I generally don’t love masculine fragrances on my own skin, Gentlewoman is just that….gentle. It’s edgy, yet elegant and a bit androgynous It’s truly a touch of dandy for the modern woman.
Available: Sephora, C.O. Bigelow 414 6th Ave, NYC & Twisted Lily, Brooklyn, NY
Whether you’re a modern day grisette or a dandy – try both these fragrances that celebrate the modern woman of today.